I am becoming more confident with jersey sewing but my machine continues to misbehave and is inconsistent when it comes to stitching more than one layer of fabric.
Having resolved the problem of the stretching waistline on the bodice of the Bettina dress I noticed that I still had quite large pieces of the fabric left over. Could I squeeze out another tee top? By disregarding placement of the bold pattern I was able to cut a short sleeve tee using my TNT bodice/tee top pattern. The only differences to the pattern were that I deepened the scoop on the front neckline by approximately 1 inch and reduced the width of both front and back bodice pieces by 1 inch at the side seam hems grading up to nothing just below the bust darts. There was insufficient fabric for the long sleeves and in any case I had long sleeves on the Bettina dress so let’s see how it looks with short sleeves.
Print placement worked out quite well
The top was stitched together very quickly using the overlocker for all seams other than the stay-stitching around the neckline. I decided to have another go at binding the neckline. I cut a piece of bias fabric 2½” wide and stretched and pinned to the neckline at the stay stitching. This was then tacked before overlocking. I used the depth of the overlocked seam as a guide to turn the bias to the inside and pinned it in place prior to stitching in the ditch from the right side to secure. I then trimmed the excess bias with pinking shears.
Bias binding at neckline
It seems to have worked well so next time I will not cut the bias quite so wide and will overlock the raw edge close to the “ditch” stitching.
I now have 2 very personalised garments for the cost of just over £20.00 – can’t be bad.
My new infatuation with Jersey fabric dressmaking continues but I have now had my first “tiff”with sewing this type of fabric!
I recently (and contra to my resolution of NOT to buy fabric!) purchased 3 metres at a cost of £5.25 per metre of winter-weight jersey called “Sunset Roses”, a bold floral print from Fabricland. The fabric is great, a nice weight and so soft. It has a good drape and so I decided to try the “Bettina” that I usually make in cotton or poplin, in a jersey fabric.
I did a couple of rows of test stitching but only on single layer of fabric and was dismayed when it came to stitching the darts that there were so many skipped stitches. I changed to yet another brand new jersey needle and re-threaded the machine. Still no joy. In desperation I stitched the bodice darts with the overlocker. No problem. I inserted a length of stabilising ribbon and stitched the shoulder seams. I then stitched the side seams and had my first fitting. Due to the stretch of the jersey, I took in the side seams by ½ inch before inserting the bracelet-length sleeves. Bearing in mind that I have not yet mastered neck binding and bands I cut out a back and front neckline facing using scraps of the jersey fabric. As it was only a single layer, I stay stitched around the neckline and checked my second fit. I tried to stitch the two layers of fabric and lo and behold – great stitching with no missed stitches.
Scoop neckline with facing and single row of top stitching
Fired up that the problem was now resolved I sewed the panels of the skirt (1 + ½ widths of fabric cut 26 inches long), quartered and stitched 2 rows of gathering to pull up and fit to the waist of the bodice. Although I tacked the skirt to the bodice when it came to machine stitching, the bodice stretched out so now it looked like “Tents R Us!” I had to cut the skirt off the bodice, thereby losing about ½ inch in length from both bodice and skirt and the next time, added some stay tape (made from the selvedge of some spare lining fabric that I had to hand) to the bottom of the bodice to prevent it from stretching out. When I re-attached the skirt to the bodice, this time I arranged the fullness as unpressed pleats. The bodice is no longer stretched out and the fullness was better distributed.
Front View Back View
Now with a slightly raised waistline and unpressed pleats in the skirt the dress is much more fitted and at last, wearable. Although it does not appear so in the photographs, the front and back hems of the skirt are perfectly level.
I had some fabric left over and went on to make a short sleeved tee top more of which is detailed in a separate post.
At Monday’s Patchwork & Quilting class based at Franklins, Salisbury we re-visited applique. Emma demonstrated the various ways of applique from needle-turned, raw edge applique and the various methods of machine stitching in place.
As I have great plans to make a new quilt featuring Mad March Hares, I practised using a “seated hare” applique on the bottom half of a tea towel as supplied by Emma.
I am now busy researching “Hare” outlines which will be used in random blocks on the quilt. Other blocks may feature flowers that are in bloom in the blustery month – but we shall wait and see what transpires. I may get side-tracked (yet again) and end up making something completely different!
Winter theme Quilt Top
After an afternoon of quilting this quilt is now finished! In the end I decided to stick to what I knew and quilted the interlocking circles. I added a binding made from Light Grey Paisley print. This was added by machine and then “stitched in the ditch” so that the entire quilt has been made on the sewing machine. No hand sewing was involved in this project – my kind of sewing!
Winter theme quilt – Reverse
Having completed the “Heather” dress from SEWOVER IT, I had a length of fabric remaining – just enough for another jersey tee. This time I was able to cut the longer length that I required but was still able to have ¾ length sleeves. The tee went together like a dream infact once cut out, it took just 1 hour to stitch together. The bust darts and shoulder seams were stitched on the sewing machine. The shoulder seams were stabilised with short pieces of narrow satin ribbon and then the remainder of the tee was constructed using the overlocker. This time I did not waste any time trying to “finesse” a neck band. I stay-stitched ½ inch from the edge and then turned to the inside before twin-needle stitching in place. The hems on the sleeves and the body are, as usual, stitched with a jersey twin needle.
I still love jersey sewing and jazz just enjoys a nap – you can see her in the reflection of the mirror!!
I made this quilt a few years ago and like to ensure that it is on display on February 14th, Saint Valentine’s Day.
The quilt originally began as a practice in making layered hearts in raw edge applique but quickly grew into a cushion cover, then a lap quilt and finally a large quilt (60 inches square) for display on the piano.
As you can see, each block is made from 3 layered hearts in descending sizes. There are 8 blocks were made then cut into 4 before stitching back together in a random fashion. These were the original blocks and dictated the size of the remaining 16 blocks that surround the centre panel. As each heart applique was stitched I removed the backing so that I ended up with many more hearts than were required. I still have some stored in my stash awaiting another heart-theme project!
The quilt has a 2 oz polyester wadding backed with a plain pink polyester cotton bed sheet. The quilting is minimal – basically the squares and borders stitched “in the ditch”. If I were to make this design again, I would increase the amount of quilting but for now it is sufficient.
Tomorrow, the 15th February, the Valentine Hearts will be replaced with the “Winter” quilt (I managed to finish on Thursday of last week) – more of which is posted in the 3rd instalment of the project.
One of my plans for 2017 is to become more competent when sewing jersey and to this end I have already made a couple of straightforward tee-style tops. I am an avid fan of “Sew Over It” and have recently joined the PDF club. For my free and discounted patterns I chose “Nancy” and “Heather”.
The Heather dress is specifically designed for knit fabrics and looked to be fairly easy – armed with 2 metres of 150 cms wide Ditsy floral print jersey in Navy and Grey purchased from Fabricland at £4.59 per metre I set about making the dress.
I graded up the pattern at the side seams to accommodate my generous curves. Having read several reviews of the pattern I also increased the width of the sleeves by ½ inch at each side. Within an hour I had cut out the fabric and started stitching it together. I was able to store the partially completed dress on my new dressmaking dummy.
Following the construction information was easy and as I had previously made a woven fabric dress with similar arrangement of pockets in a princess seam, encountered no problems with stitching the pockets. However, the neck banding was much more problematic. Firstly I measured the circumference of the neckline at the seam line and it appeared to be much smaller than the length of the pattern piece. I therefore adopted the formula as detailed in this you tube video.
However the band was then too small. I tried again using a slightly longer band and this time it was too big! At this point I abandoned the idea of a neck banding. I overlocked the neckline and then turned to the inside on the line of staystitching. I tacked the turning, pressed well and top-stitched in place with the twin needle. The hems on the sleeves were also finished in this manner.
The dress at the neckline, shoulders and bust area in this fabric (which is extremely stretchy) are great.
Unfortunately the weight of the pockets tends to drag at the side seams over the hip area and also I think that I need to take in the side seams from the waist to hem at there appears to be too much fabric and no shaping. Again this is probably due to the high stretch qualities of the fabric. It will no doubt be better in a more stable knit. Due to the busyness of the print the details of the seaming is lost. It will be better in a plain or less busy print. Originally I had added 2 inches to the length but at the final fitting I reduced this by 1 inch, turned up 1 inch and then stitched with a wide twin needle. I like the dress and will be making another but this time in a more stable fabric with not so much stretch. I will also be drafting the front panels to exclude the pockets which although are a lovely addition do tend to add “weight” in an area where it is not needed!
I am still working on the “Winter” themed quilt but it is progressing well. I have now completed the top and made the “sandwich” of top, wadding (80/20 cotton and polyester from my stash) and backing.
The quilt “sandwich”
close up showing gradation of colour
Next step is the quilting. Last time I did free-motion interlocking circles and I may well do that again but before I settle to that design I will try some different patterns, possibly using a wide set twin needle.
I have been supervised by my cat who seems to think that this quilt is being made especially for her. She repeatedly tries to sleep on it when it is laid out on our beds!
I had to buy another charm pack of “Luster” as I was running out of sufficient 5 inch squares to make up the 36 blocks that I needed. I also purchased some “Burlap” by Benartex in the Silver colourway to make the 2½ inch border that brings the quilt to the required size for covering the grand piano.
The backing is made from 1744 Heartwood Scenic © The Henley Studio for Makower UK that I originally intended to make into a dress but on reflection I don’t think the colour would suit me so here it is to ensure that the reverse of the quilt is as interesting as the front.
I have decided on the text for the label that will be applied to the quilt once it is completed. It is a Haiku entitled “Winter Forest” by Nick Bagnall.
A winter forest
Frosted leaves lay heaped around
Hedgehog sleeps within
I think this is particularly appropriate as we have a wooded area next to the boundary of our property and there are many leaves falling into the garden. We also have our own hedgehog that makes regular visits during the Summer and is currently hibernating behind the garage.
Today, as a change from dressmaking and the exacting requirements of “FIT” I have started work on a new quilt for my husband’s grand piano. At Christmas there was a Christmas-themed-prints log cabin quilt on the piano but that has now been put away. The next themed quilt is for Valentine’s Day – a quilt featuring lots of layered applique hearts in a variety of floral printed cottons. What we really need is something for the interim that will take us up to the “Springtime” quilt.
Taking inspiration from the colours of our surrounding countryside I had previously purchased two charm packs by Moda called Modern Backgrounds *Luster*. In addition I also purchased a variety of fat quarters in co-ordinating shades of Taupe and Blue/Grey together with a metre length of plain “Gold” lustre as the basic accent. At the time of purchasing the fabrics I had not yet made up my mind exactly which block design I would use. I was wavering between “Disappearing 9 patch” and “3D bow tie/faux Cathedral Window”.
Yesterday I was putting away a box of zips when I chanced upon a box of Blue-toned fabrics. On top of the selection was a short length (approximately ¾ yard) of a fine cotton lawn in lightest Sky Blue with White pin spots. Ah ha! Decision made! I would make the “3D bow tie/faux Cathedral Window” blocks and use this lovely Blue as the “window” accent to reflect the delicate shade of the sky at this time of year.
The quilt that I made in Autumn shades uses the same block design so I knew that I would need to make 36 blocks of 4 x 5 inch squares, each with the 3D bow tie/faux cathedral window.
Block showing the 3D bow tie = Cathedral window “frame”
Double row of blocks showing next row of blank 3D bow ties/cathedral window “frames”
Block with “Window” pinned into “frame”
First 2 rows (part) of completed blocks
These are joined in rows of 6 blocks each with another “window” set in between the rows.
I am stitching entirely on the machine and so far have made 12 x blocks. The blocks are coming together nicely and I look forward to getting the quilt completed as soon as possible so that it takes centre stage on the piano until 21st March (excluding Valentine’s Day of course!) when the “Springtime” quilt will take over.
Hot on the heels of the Teddy-print pinafore dress I saw this ditsy floral printed pincord in the sale at New Threads Quilt Shop and immediately thought it would be good for another pinafore dress. I bought just 2 metres and got busy.
I cut out the dress together with a lining in Cream anti-static fabric. I checked the bumper stash of zips and found a great match in a length of continuous zip tape complete with co-ordinating zip pull.
Having changed the threads on the overlocker from Black to Rusty-brown I very quickly overlocked all the raw edges of the pincord before stitching the darts and shoulder seams. This time I also remembered to stay stitch the neckline and armholes. Marking the darts on the lining fabric was a little tricky as it slipped and slid around but I got there eventually. Because the lining fabric is prone to fraying and I did not want to re-thread the overlocker, I used a triple stitch zig-zag to neaten the seam allowances which worked very well, keeping the allowances flat so that they did not curl or bunch up under the needle.
Having stitched the darts and shoulder seams of the lining I then placed lining and pinafore dress right sides together taking care to align the lining just a fraction over the pincord so that when I turned right sides out the lining would automatically pull to the inside. With pins at right angles to the raw edges the two were sewn together with 5/8 inch seams around the neckline and each armhole. The seams were then pressed and seam allowances trimmed using my pinking shears. To turn through to right side out is an easy matter of pulling each back through the shoulder to the front.
Now I could insert the zip in the centre back. When there is a deep scoop to the neckline I like to set the zip a couple of inches down from the back neck and this is what I did on this occasion. I used a lapped zip insertion and then slip stitched the lining to the zip tape.
The side seams are sewn all in one continuous seam. There is a short vent in the hem of the centre back and the lining has thread ties at the side seam hems just to secure the lining to the inside. Hems on both the pinafore dress and the lining are machine stitched. Finally also to secure the lining to the inside, there is a row of top stitching around the neck and the armholes.
The colourway of this pinafore dress goes well with both my Mustard and Teal polo neck tops so combined with the Teddy print I think I now have sufficient pinafore dresses to see me through the coming cold weather.