I purchased this pretty needlecord from a seller on eBay just a few weeks ago when I was actually looking for Sage Green! Oh well – I loved the colour and print so decided to go ahead with a pinafore dress whilst keeping an eye open for the Sage Green. I hacked the bodice pattern from the Spring flowers shirtwaister dress by re-drawing the scoop neckline, reducing the slant and width of the shoulder seams. I decided to use an “all in one” facing for the neckline and armholes which means that I had to have a centre back seam and leave the stitching of the side seams until after the facings had been attached to the bodice. This is useful when hacking a pattern as it leaves opportunities for adjustment of width at the centre back and side seams. As the fabric was approximately 60″ wide I cut the skirt as 1 and half panels by the length required and decided the make the 1/2 width panel seams line up with the bodice darts. I also stitched the pockets into this panel seam which makes them very easy to get at. I used my usual pocket bag design so that the top of the bag is stitched into the waistline seam and prevents them flapping about inside the skirt. Having completed the bodice I double top stitched around the neckline and armholes before setting the pleats of the skirt. Due to the thickness of the fabric I wanted to keep bulk away from the side seams so the pleats are set in the centre third of the front and back. All seams have been overlocked and the hem was blind hem stitched on the machine. I am happy with the way that the pinafore dress turned out although next time I may reduce the amount of fabric in the back skirt. I have noticed that due to my “wonky” hip the pleats at the right back do not sit quite as flat as the left back but hopefully when the hip settles down this problem will resolve itself.
FRONT VIEW BACK VIEW CLOSE UP OF POCKET BEHIND PLEAT