In an earlier post I explained that whilst overlocking seam allowances on the sleeves I managed to cut off one of the points of the collar on this dress. The disaster has been averted by the judicial placement of some filigree gilt collar points. What a truly happy accident!
Category Archives: Alterations
A new style – New Look K6574
When I was planning my projects for the year of 2022 I wanted to include some new styles and make up some of the many, many pdf patterns that I have in my stash.
Since the beginning of the year I have been working on the theme of Green, later extending to ‘Golden Daffodils and Spring Greens’. When I saw this NEW LOOK pattern, especially view A, I realised that I had a very similar printed Viscose Marocain that I had bought from Rainbow Fabrics, Kilburn. That decided me – I needed to make up this new style!
As the pattern has a limited size range up to US-18 I knew that although the fit across the shoulders would be fine, I would need to expand for my ‘fuller’ figure.
I made a toile using lightweight plain White polyester cotton and proceeded to make a Full Bust adjustment. I also decided to ignore the front slit at the bodice and neckline yoke, I would simply stitch the opening closed, cut the yoke piece placed on the fold at the centre front and rely solely on the centre back zip to be able to put the dress on and off. Although the toile was made with the short puffed sleeves of view C, I was not sure at that stage whether I would have short or long sleeves on the final dress. I had sufficient fabric for either version.
Even after making the toile in polyester cotton, I still ‘chickened out’ of using my matching Viscose Marocain fabric and decided to make a ‘wearable muslin’ using some of the Dark Green Palm print viscose (also from Rainbow Fabrics).
Having already made one toile I powered ahead with this ‘wearable muslin’. As I would normally French Seam this weight of viscose fabric, for speed all seams were overlocked with Black thread. I did not like the way the instructions told you to finish the hem band on the short sleeves. I did it my way so that all the raw edges were enclosed. I found the neckline yoke particularly fiddly and was glad that at least one layer was interfaced for stability.
First fitting I found that I could put the dress on over my head without the opening for the zip or the slit on the centre front of the bodice. I had to laugh! Firstly the sleeves were so full that I looked like an American footballer. The blouson of the gathers under the bust were way to full and the fabric drooped down almost to my waist. I had to remove over 3 inches from the centre front of the bodice grading back to 0 at the side seams. It could still do with another ½ inch being removed from the fullness! Because the skirt is panelled and shaped to ‘skim’ over the midriff, in my case, it was more fitted. I had to let out the side seams to give me a little more room to breathe!
Conclusion: Although I will keep the dress (as a reminder!) I am not sure that I will ever wear it. I have listed the original pattern on eBay as I know that I will never, ever make this particular pattern again! Now the search is on for an alternative pattern to use with the Viscose Marocain.
Project #21 completed 3rd April 2022
At last – Dungarees!
Way back in the mists of time (about 30+ years ago) I made a pair of dungarees for my sister when she was expecting her first child. At the time I full intended to make a pair of dungaees for myself. Time has passed and over the years I acquired several patterns for dungarees but just never got around to making them.
Two weeks ago I was shopping in Sainsburys and decided to have a browse down the clothing aisle. In the ‘reduced’ section I came across a single pair of Indigo denim dungarees – in just my size! They were reduced to £7.20 and I knew that I had £7.50-worth of loyalty points so…..no brainer, the dungarees were quickly put into my shopping trolley!
When I returned home, I tried on the dungarees and was delighted to find that they fit! Only problem was that they were sized for someone at least 5’6” tall whereas I am only 5’4”. Not really a problem. I cut off 1inch from each leg, added some pretty ‘scissor-print’ cotton binding and turned up 1¼ inches. I had some Orange thread and using a stitch length of 3.5mm machine top stitched the hems in place. Perfect!
I have purchased some pretty jazzy cotton print to make a ‘Gilbert’ shirt by Helen’s Closet to go with the dungarees and will be able to channel my Childrens’ TV presenter vibe –
…….only about 40 years late!
Project #11 Completed 23rd February 2022
Refashioned Polo neck Top
Some time ago I bought a polo neck top from Cotton Traders. The very first thing I had to do was to reduce the length! Since then the top had been worn only once as I found the polo neck too tight and high. So, it sat in the cupboard waiting for me to get around to it.
Today was the day. I cut off the collar, removed the sleeves and cut out the seams on the shoulders. Using my self-drafted Paolina pattern I re-cut short sleeves (could not avoid the Cotton Traders embroidered log) and a new scoop neckline. I used two pieces of 2 inch wide strip cut from the remainder of the sleeves to make a neckband.
First thing to stitch was the new shoulder seams (¼ inch seam allowance only) using some stay tape in the seam as the fabric is very mobile. I used a narrow zig-zagstitch and then finished with the overlocker. Next was the neckband. This went in like a dream!
Finally I turned up the hem on the sleeves and as I had never cut the original side seams, set the sleeves into the armholes using the ‘in the round’ method.
All finished in around 40 minutes. A great ‘new’ tee with a much more comfortable neckline.
Project #78 completed 21st November 2021.
Autumn print Vogue 8577-refashion
My take of the Vogue 8577 made in an Autumnal toned fruit print cotton lawn was originally completed in September 2019.
Since then the Covid pandemic and lockdowns have taken their toll so that now the dress is too small in the bodice.
The fabric was purchased at the Festival of Quilts and after making the dress there was a large remnant. I am so glad that I kept it!
With some pattern tetris I was able to cut a new bodice and sleeves using my ‘Harley’ pattern. The back bodice has a centre seam and the front facings are pieced. I used some fine White cotton as a lining for the bodice and sleeves which provides some additional structure to this fine lightweight cotton lawn.
I re-visited Sian of Kittenish Behaviour’s vlog where she gives some hints and tips for sewing the Vogue 8577 and this helped enormously when fitting the bodice to the skirt at the front where there was a continuous facing plus lots of buttons and buttonholes to contend with. All bodice seam allowances were trimmed with pinking shears and the side seams pressed open and flat. The lining was turned up and hand stitched to the waistline seam.
I re-used the buttons from the original bodice plus the spare so there are 7 buttons on the bodice.
I am delighted with how the dress has turned out and it will form the key element to yet another capsule collection for Autumn. Notice how well the print coordinates with my latest elasticated wide belt and suede wedge-heeled espadrilles.
Project #63 completed 23rd September 2021
Yet another recycle?
Oh yes! I have made at least 5 versions of the Vogue 8577 and unfortunately some of them no longer fit across the bust. This particular version is the very first one that I made according to the pattern in so far as there is a midriff yoke and the giant pockets in the skirt.
Another two hours of unpicking during Friday morning sewing get together resulted in a separate bodice and skirt. I no longer have any remnants of the fabric that I used for this dress so having had a cogitate decided to attach a contrast bodice – made using some pretty Broderie Anglaise from deep within my stash. I would later add a belt so that the finished result would look like a blouse with contrasting skirt.
Having previously completed this type of ‘hack’ I was fairly confident about attaching a new bodice to the skirt. Again I used my ‘Harley’ bodice pattern but this time with the re-drafted sleeve. I just love how the gathers at the sleeve head sit and the length is just right. As there are many holes quite close together in this Broderie Anglaise design, I used some plain White cotton for the facings and all seams were flat felled into place.
The bodice went together well and I soon had the ‘recycle’ completed. I top- stitched the facings in place with a narrow seam allowance tucked under so now there are no excess seam allowances inside the bodice.
The final decision to make was regarding buttons. Should I use plain White buttons on the bodice, or the same Pale Turquoise that came off the original bodice? The decision was easy as I found that I did not have any suitable White buttons in my stash. I think the Pale Blue ones look very nice.
I am now waiting for an elasticated belt to arrive to complete the look and in the meantime I have some pretty alternatives from my wardrobe to compliment this new faux ‘blouse and skirt’ ensemble.
Project #54 completed 24th August 2021
Tidying Up Texas Pants
Back in May I declared that I would concentrate on refining a new pattern for trousers, culottes and also a jumpsuit. Well that did not happen! I was seduced by the Texas pattern by Style Arc and made it up no less than 4 times.
Unfortunately not a single pair is spot- on in terms of fit. One pair were made using NEW fabric – a stretch denim from Minerva.
The reason that pair were not perfect is due mostly to my choice of fabric. The denim was too stiff but I hope it will soften up with wear and wash. In the meantime, some alterations were necessary.
First I cut away the pockets. Two reasons: a) the pocket bags were too long b) three layers of this stiff fabric was interfering with the drape of the trousers. I left the top-stitching in place so now I have ‘faux side pockets’.
Next, I decided to completely re-stitch the outside leg seams. This meant that I had to do a great deal of unpicking! I unpicked part of the waistband at each side, part of the hems on each leg plus the entire side seams that had been stitched with 4-thread overlocking PLUS twin needle top-stitching!
Next, I pinned down the side seams where I thought would be more appropriate before machine-tacking ready for a fitting. From the fitting I concluded that to take in by no less than 1 inch from each leg piece i.e. a total of 2 inches from each side seam was the way forward. I completed the alteration by machine stitching and overlocking the side seams, re-stitching the waistband and hems plus twin needle top stitching around the hems. I was unable to repeat the twin needle top stitching at the side seams as I could not manipulate through the inside of the legs. I good thorough press completed the project.
The Texas pants are not perfect but in this substrate are now a much better fit. I plan to re-draw the pattern taking into account all the various alterations and ….. hopefully will end up with a ‘perfect’ trouser pattern.
Project #53 completed 22nd August 2021
Recycling Bathroom Mules
Hot on the tails of using up remnants of fabric from my stash, I used some leftovers from other projects to recycle/refresh/renew two pairs of bathroom mules.
The originals were purchased from The White Company several years ago. I notice that the current mules offered on the site have changed and they now have a hard sole as opposed to the thin ’embossed plastic’ that is on my current ones.
Both pairs are made from the Duck Egg Blue background remnants of a Superking-sized duvet cover originally purchased from Dunelm and made up into nightdresses, dressing gown, toilet and cosmetic pouches. I am an avid coordinator!
For the first pair, which have previously been ‘refreshed’ several times, I quilted in a diagonal grid. The bonus for this particular pair is that they are ‘unifoot’ in that they can be worn on either foot.
The second pair are newer and have been re-designed by The White Company. Now there is a definite left and right mule and the instep pattern piece has been extended so that there is less chance of the mule slipping off your foot. The second pair has the quilting in a square grid.
I love these mules as they are so comfortable and just right for use in the bathrooms when walking on the cold floors.
Projects #48 & #49 completed 28th July 2021
Alteration to Shift Dress
Regular readers will be aware that I dislike alterations but I have in my wardrobe a shift dress that I made when first exploring jersey sewing and it was in need of some radical alteration.
The dress was originally made according to a Prima pattern APRIL 1997 designed for woven and having been washed and worn over the years was now too big. The dress bore the styling of the the eighties including shoulder pads and was very long. I have never liked the faced neckline which was a little too high and also the shoulders were too wide for current fashion.
To start the alteration I first removed the facing and re-cut a lower neckline. I removed the sleeves and shoulder pads before restitching the shoulder seam. Then I stitched new side seams, taking off approximately 1 inch from each side seam. The sleeves were then re-inserted.
I cut about 4 inches from the length of the dress and used some of that to make a neckband. I re-hemmed the dress with a 1 inch turning.
The dress is now much more flattering although it could still do with some skimming down at the hips. I will wait and see if I lose any more weight to make it worthwhile altering the dress further.
I plan to revisit this pattern in 2020 and try this different silhouette as a change from my numerous shirt dresses!
completed 28th November 2019
Re-fashion SOI hack dress
After the Sew Southampton meet up in 2018 I bought 4 metres of a cotton printed fabric from Fabricland, Southampton branch and used it to make a ‘hack’ of two Sew Over It patterns. The top was the Libby blouse attached to the skirt of the Betty dress.
The garment was beautifully made with all seams neatened and on this occasion the collar on the Libby bodice went really well. However, I never wore the dress as on the two times I planned to wear it I put it on and then took it off again! I simply could not get over seeing all that neutral (bland?) colour and print on me. What could I do to rescue the garment?
Regular readers of my blog will know how I dislike alterations but this time I had to do something to rescue the garment.
I removed the skirt and from that cut two shaped pieces which I then gathered and re-attached to the waistline of the bodice as a peplum.
The re-fashioned garment looks fine over skinny jeans or leggings and a by-product is that re-visiting the dress has reignited my love of the Libby blouse pattern. I must make some more…..
completed 31st October 2019