I really enjoy this dress from Style Arc patterns. Recently I have been discovering the beautiful prints available on Viscose (rayon) substrate and so for this iteration I have used a 100% viscose fabric ‘Summer Floral’ bought from an ebay seller, ‘ohsewcrafty’.
I purchased 3 metres for the grand total of £14.24 – a very competitive price! Once it arrived the fabric was laundered and on close inspection I decided that it was possibly a little more transparent than I would like and therefore would require a full lining.
I watched a youtube video by Suzanne of Sew Custom where she mentioned that she had lined a viscose dress with viscose voile purchased from the Fabric Room. This fabric was a mere £2 per metre (before vat & postage) available in 3metre lengths and so I ordered a total of 6 metres as I knew it would come in very handy for lining bodices etc., of my future viscose makes.
The floral print viscose was very wide and there was ample to enable me to cut the Montana with the addition of a deep frill on the skirt.
The viscose voile was cut at the same time but I omitted the hem frill and cut to the full length. I heard from someone, somewhere, that it is a good idea to use spray starch if the fabric is misbehaving and I have found this ‘trick’ to be a godsend in subduing the viscose’s tendency to shift and slide about!
First step was to prepare the skirt panels and frill. I used a 3-thread overlock stitch for the first pass in making French seams to join the pieces together followed by a 1cm seam on the sewing machine to put right sides together. In my enthusiasm, I forgot to include the pocket bags in the main skirt side seams so on this very rare occasion there will be no pockets on this dress :-(.
I stitched the darts in the bodice and lining before joining at the shoulder seams. With right sides together I stitched the necklines together using a 5/8ths seam allowance as I wanted the neckline to be a shade wider and deeper than the pattern (usually a ¼ inch seam allowance for this seam) dictates.
I under stitched all the seam allowances before trimming, turning right side out and giving a good press. I am very pleased with the neckline. Next was to Burrito the cap sleeve hems. I love, love, this method. It is quick and simple providing a very good finish.
Now that I had the neckline and sleeves sewn, I stitched the side seams of both the outer and lining in one pass. I overlocked these seams as they would be wrong sides together.
Initially I thought that I would stitch the waistline of the two bodices together before attaching the skirt panels for both outer and lining. After some consideration I decided to attach the individual skirts to each corresponding bodice. All seams would be inside but each bodice would bear the weight of its own skirt separately.
I made the gathering using two rows of long machine stitches before attaching with French seams. Again the first pass was made with the 3-thread overlocker before a final pass using the machine at a 1 cm straight stitch. Before attaching the lining skirt to its bodice, I turned up a double fold 2 inch hem and top stitched in place with a double row of stitching.
A final press and here was the finished Montana #3. I love this dress in this Viscose fabric. It is so comfortable, light and breezy even with the full lining. With the added fullness of a deep frill on the hem it is ideal for ‘swishing’ and ‘twirling’!
Completed project #41 27th June 2020