Inspired by Sian of Kittenish Behaviour I have been wanting to make this dress for a long time. Back in February Sian filmed a sew-a-long for the dress but with one important change – make it up in a Jersey (Scuba) fabric rather than a woven!
I purchased 3 metres of Scuba print from The Textile Centre. The fabric is listed thus: Dark Gothic Floral Print Poly Scuba Jersey Dress fabric material(Deep Eggplant) and was on sale for £4.49 per metre. This was exactly the type and colour of fabric that I needed to make my first V8972 in Jersey! With my 3 metres of fabric I had sufficient to make View E with the full skirt but with the ¾ length sleeves of View C.
Following Sian’s instructions I first established which cup size was right for me and then traced the pattern pieces for the bodice. I did not need to trace the skirt pattern as I had decided to use the largest size and take in if necessary when I got to the fitting stage. For the bodice I traced a D cup size 20. I cut out the fabric late afternoon and prepared both the sewing machine and overlocker ready to get stitching the following day.
The next morning, I reviewed Sian’s vlog posts again and made notes on the order of construction. First was to stitch the bodice panels. As I am new to this pattern I machine basted all the seams with a very long machine stitch on the sewing machine. I attached the yoke pieces. NB make sure that you attach the yokes the right way up – I made the mistake of putting the skirt edge of the back yoke to the back bodice! Fortunately it was very easy to unpick the basting stitches and re-baste the CORRECT edges together.
At first fitting I found that like so many things at my age, my bust is a little lower than the pert position it held in my twenties! I re-basted the princess seam lines on the bodice to reflect the lower apex of my bust. I also needed to take in the side seams a little (not a bad thing!).
Having noted the small alterations I stitched the main seams on the overlocker. I cut a neckband according to Sian’s instructions and basted on the sewing machine. I found that I had to stretch the neckband a great deal and that it was a little narrower than I like. Next time, I will cut at 1¾ inches wide rather than 1½ inches. With a good press with steam the neckline was sitting neatly. I top stitched with a zig-zag stitch which I repeated on the bodice/yoke seams. The seam allowance for the front yoke was pressed away from the yoke. On the back yoke the seams were pressed inwards towards the yoke. Joining seams were top stitched with the zig-zag stitch.
I set the sleeves in using the overlocker and although there was a lot more ease (as the pattern is drafted for woven fabrics) with the stretch of the Scuba jersey this was easily accomplished.
The side seams and underarm seams were basted and the second fitting confirmed all was well. I could afford to take in a small amount to achieve a more fitted silhouette. The seams were then overlocked and pressed with steam.
The hems on the sleeves and the skirt were first overlocked before stitching in place with the zig zag stitch.
I am delighted with the final dress and hope to wear it when visiting relatives and for New Year’s Eve celebrations.