Before I cut into the fabulous Mustard Boiled Wool that I bought from Rosenberg & Sons at Festival of Quilts thought it would be best to re-visit Simplicity #4032 to ensure that it would fit and that the alterations made previously on this version (made several years ago and since sold on eBay) were still appropriate.
However, when I tracked down the envelope I was disappointed to find that some of the pattern pieces were missing. What to do? I decided to try Kwik Sew #K4701 using some ‘wool tweed’ that was leftover from Christmas Gift projects made in 2015.
I cut an XL, shortened the sleeves by 4 inches (next time only need to shorten by 3 inches) and shortened the body length by 4 inches.
I used my favourite technique for ‘boiled wool’ jackets and coats. For this method I straight stitch before overlocking the edges. For the piece that is to go underneath I straight stitch 1¼ inches from the raw edge before overlocking the raw edge, for the top piece, I overlock close to the 5/8ths stitching line. I then placed the top piece over the underpiece matching the pre-stitched seamlines before stitching through all layers. This method gives a neat, flat finish with all edges clean finished with the overlocker. I overlocked the entire outer edges of the jacket and skipped the addition of any pockets.
I now have a neat classically styled jacket to wear with dresses, skirts and jeans.
Having completed this wearable toile – next time I will cut as a size L at the shoulders and chest before grading out to XL for the bust, waist and hips. I will re-shape the lapel slightly and maybe adjust my ‘boiled wool’ seaming technique. Next time all seams will be straight stitched at 5/8ths before overlocking close to that stitching and this way it will reduce the bulk at the seams.
completed 1st November 2019