Having completed the Lisette top using fabric from the stash I could now use the new Blofield Paisley printed cotton purchased from Fabricland. I hacked the blouse from Style 1441 by extending the length to make a dress and shaped the hemline as per the Merchant & Mills Dress Shirt pattern. I also decided to have 3/4 length sleeves into a buttoned cuff. From the photo on the website although the fabric  was called “Grey” it looked as though  it had a Blue background but once received I saw that it was indeed a Gun Metal Blue/Grey so the first job was to re-thread the overlocker and sewing machine with the appropriate thread. I enjoyed making the dress which has all seams double top-stitched plus the added extra of epaulettes on the shoulders – a favourite “add-on” of mine. At fitting stage I discovered that the dress was just too roomy. I increased the seam allowance on the side seams and added shaping for the waistline which improved the silhouette. Although I enjoyed making the dress with all the different processes involved, in the final analysis I am not sure if I actually like the finished article. I could wear the dress as it is, add a belt or wear open as a lightweight coat. I will leave it hanging in the wardrobe for a while and see if my feelings change – if they don’t then I shall list the dress for sale on eBay.  Next step – stash busting again.

Having recently completed a project using fabric from my stash I could now allow myself to make up the next project using some NEW fabric.

I selected some lovely Soft Green Linen-look cotton purchased from Fabricland, to make the second version of the Simplicity 2245 Lisette pattern which I purchased (at great expense) from an eBayer in Australia. This time I would make the Dress with ¾ sleeves. I decided to use only the plain linen-look fabric with no contrast for the neckline yoke or sleeve bands. Many years ago I made a coat in a similar fabric which I top-stitched in Dark Green and I decided to repeat that finish on this tunic dress. Having held the pattern up against me I thought that it would be long enough, the only adjustments I made were to add a ½ inch to the side seams as I remembered that the tunic top came out a little snug around the hips and to exclude the back opening on the yoke as the dress can be put on “pullover” style. As the fabric has a firm weave and is robust I omitted the interfacing in the small feature rectangle , yoke and sleeve hem bands. Also I overlocked the edge of the yoke facing and top stitched in place from the right side, thus avoiding several layers of turnings where the yoke joins the main body of the dress. I made the bias cuffs for the sleeves which made them just the right length but I should have extended the body of the dress by a couple of inches as it is rather short!

I have some more of the linen-look cotton fabric in a lovely shade of Blue and I plan to make it up into the Merchant & Mills Dress Shirt pattern. But before I do that I need to use some fabric from my stash – the Simplicity 2245 pattern includes a simple top which I shall make to co-ordinate with Spring trousers.

                       Full length view                                                   Close up neckline yoke

sleeve hem & pocket

In an effort to reduce the amount of fabric in my stash I promised myself that this year, for each new length of fabric purchased and made up, I would also use a length from my stash Having used new fabric for the Walkaway Dress meant that I needed to plunder the stash for a length to sew into another garment. The lovely linen-look fabric that I purchased in anticipation of using for a Merchant & Mills Dress is waiting patiently in the pile and I decided to make just one more “test” garment before cutting into the linen-look fabric. I chose a length of Terracotta fabric, fibre content unknown, but most likely a polyester/viscose blend, which has a slight rib in the weave. The drape was good and I set to and cut out the dress. Whilst laying out the fabric and checking notions, thread etc, I happened upon a fat quarter of quilting cotton in a batik/marble print – just the right colour to use for a contrast bib. I made a minor adjustment by reducing the depth of the scoop neckline – only by a ¼ inch but it may be enough to help prevent “gaposis”. I also adjusted the angle of the shoulder seam. As the 22 was plenty big enough, this time I have drafted to a size 20. The first step of making up the dress is the bib, this time instead of straight top-stitching on the centre seam, I used a decorative stitch which echoes the randomness of the marble/batik print fabric. The dress went together quickly and well, all seams are overlocked and hems are top-stitched. Having completed the second version of the M&M Dress Shirt I am confident about progressing with the linen-look version. Watch this space……