Monthly Archives: July 2022

Maryon #2

Hot on the tails of the success of Maryon #1 – a wearable toile, I decided that I needed another version. This time I fancied a Pink dress in cotton poplin.

Floral print cotton poplin

I purchased this pretty floral print cotton poplin in April 2022 from an ebay seller (fabrics-online) for a total cost of £15.16. There were 4 metres x 147cms wide. Once I had completed the cutting out I found that I had used only 2.66 metres of the very wide fabric. I now have 1.34 metres remnant to make a blouse. Result!

Noting some things that were ‘not quite right’ about the Maryon #1, I first ‘finessed’ my pattern. I altered the neckline slightly and trimmed down the side seams by 1/8th inch. I would change the way that the waist darts are sewn so that they more closely fit my rib cage.

First I made up the skirt with the concealed side seam pockets. I used French seams as I particularly like the insides of my garments to look neat. French seams will help to prolong the life of the dress through many washes.

Next, onto the bodice. I marked and stitched the darts also adding stay stitching to the front neckline which is on the bias. I stitched the side seams and neatened the armholes with self bias binding.

The front neckline facings were cut extra long so that they can be added to the skirt without a seam adding bulk at the centre front waistline seam. I used the last of my stash of fusible interfacing for these facings so must put some onto my shopping list.

As the skirt was already prepared it did not take very long to add to the bodice. I had increased the centre front and centre back skirt panels so gathered the extra at the fronts and centre back before attaching to the bodice. I neatened the seam with overlocking. Now I was able to finish off the facing on the bodice and skirt.

The hem was overlocked and then a double turn before top stitching. I usually make 5 buttonholes in the bodice and 7 in the skirt. This time I got carried away and there are 8 buttonholes in the skirt. The mother of pearl buttons were attached on the machine using the button foot.

Maryon #2

Conclusion: Although the fabric was listed as cotton poplin I did find it to be very lightweight – almost like a cotton lawn. Had I realised at the beginning, I would have preferred to have the bodice lined. The dress has taken 6½ hours to complete and I am very pleased with the end result. I have yet more cotton print fabrics to make up this design but for now will try a new design that includes shirring.

Project #35 completed 24th July 2022

Pink Petticoat

Often I will line the bodice of a dress but the skirt is left unlined. This is usually OK but when the skirt is very full e.g. the Maryon full circle skirted dress, I feel that a waist slip also with full skirt would be appropriate.

Using some pretty Pink viscose voile purchased from www.thefabricroom a couple of years ago, I drafted a waist slip based on the measurements that I use for the ruffled skirt of Myosotis #2. The main part measures 80 inches wide x 24 inches long, the ruffle was first cut as 3 x width of fabric = 180 inches x 10 inches long. I had some lovely Dark Pink Broderie Anglaise trim in my stash and first task was to attach this to the hemline of the ruffle. Next I used the differential feed on my overlocker to gather the top edge of the ruffle before attaching to the main part, again using a French seam.

Finally I turned over 1 inch and then another inch before stitching the casing for the elastic. I stitched 1/8th inch from the top fold so that the elastic would not twist inside the casing. Using some 5/8th wide elastic from my stash I completed the waist and checked the length of the finished petticoat. Just right!

Pink Petticoat in Viscose Voile

Project #34 completed 19th July 2022

Aria – casual shirt for my man!

Recently, once I had completed the Aria shirt by Love Notions for myself, I persuaded my husband to try it on. With a few changes I believed that it would be appropriate as a casual shirt for my man!

ARIA button down shirt by Love Notions

I printed and cut the size 3X, added 3 inches to the length and made copious notes so that I would remember to put the buttonholes on the LEFT FRONT.

I used some Navy polyester/cotton (originally a superking flat sheet) that I had set aside for toile-making. As I had already made my first version, it was a quick and easy sew.

Within 3 hours I had a completed shirt for my husband to try. It fit very well with the exception that he felt the sleeves were rather short. Personally I thought the collar was a little ‘mean’. I have adjusted the pattern so that next time I make this it should be absolutely purrfect!

Aria shirt in size 3X for my man!

Maryon – another new hack

The Myosotis dress by Deer and Doe has certainly been worth its weight as a base for hacks.

Myosotis dress pattern by Deer and Doe

Using my previous hack of Myosotis/Montana, I have made another hack and this one is called ‘Maryon’.

Drafting the pattern: Starting with the cap sleeve bodice (Marilyn), I redrew the neckline into a V-shape. I extended the length of the bodice by 1 inch so that the waist seam would fall at my natural waist and decided that this particular design would have the bodice lined with a front facing that extended down from the bodice onto a front-buttoning skirt. For the skirt I started with the full circle Penny dress pattern from Sew Over It as a base before cutting in half (to make 4 panels), adding to the seam allowances, adding to the width to allow for front button closure and adding 3 inches to the length.

I made a toile using purple poly/cotton fabric which, once refined, I used as the bodice lining for ‘Maryon’.

Fitting the toile: I found that I needed to add 1 cm to the side seams at the waist, grading back to 0 at the underarm. I also cut away 1 cm from the front V-neckline shaping and also the back neckline. I altered the pattern accordingly and drafted the facings before cutting out the fashion fabric.

For the fabric I used some quilting weight 100% cotton that I bought from my local P&Q store, New Threads based at Weyhill Fairground. The fabric is ‘Sweet Harmony’ in the Blue colourway from American Jane Patterns for moda fabrics ®.

Sweet Harmony by American Jane for moda fabrics

The fabric was on sale and I bought 4 metres. As this is not a one-way design, I had sufficient to add the full circle skirt that I planned. The fabric was laundered and been sitting in my stash since February waiting for just the right project.

Before making up the bodice in the fashion fabric I made up the skirt using French seams and included concealed side seam pockets. The skirt was left to hand to allow any bias to drop. Once the bodice was completed, I then attached it to the skirt and hand tacked the lining to the waist seam. This was machine top-stitched in place.

Buttons and Buttonholes: I had several choices available for the buttons but after consultation with my husband decided on the last card of TRAEKNAPPER wooden buttons that I bought in Alesund when on a Norwegian cruise with my sister. All 12 buttonholes and the buttons were sewn with my Brother 4000D sewing machine.

Norwegian wooden buttons – A great match

The hem was overlocked with 4 threads and then turned under twice before top-stitching in place.


Conclusion: I am very pleased with how this ‘wearable toile’ has turned out. It will certainly be worn over the Summer. As the fabric is quite substantial I feel that I shall also be able to wear it in the Winter as a Pinafore Dress with a fine knit top underneath.

Project #33 completed 14th July 2022