Monthly Archives: October 2022

Take the Chance Dress by Pattern Emporium

Dresses, Fabric - viscose

Inspired by the vlogs of Karina of Lifting Pins & Needles and Whitney of TomKat Stitchery I decided to do just that!

Take the Chance Dress pattern by Pattern Emporium

The Take The Chance Shirt Dress has been designed with the relaxed structure of an easy fit shirt. It features buttons (or snaps) along the front opening, a simple placket & collar (with the easiest instructions ever!) & is finished with a tiered skirt.

For this toile version I used some recently purchased Viscose from Rainbow Fabrics, I bought 3 metres for a total cost of £10.78. This had been washed and dried on arrival and sat awaiting inspiration as to the design of dress that I would make.

Ditsy printed Owls on Viscose from Rainbow Fabrics, Kilburn

Construction notes: I printed off the design in size 20 using the layers function in Adobe, a first time of using that option. I made no changes to the pattern – just went for it! First I cut out the bodice fronts, back, collar, under collar and short sleeves. When laying out the fabric I had discovered a nasty mark across the entire width so knew that the skirt would have to be cut to avoid this mark. This means that the skirt was not cut in the tiers as per the pattern illustration but I was able to cut 2 longer panels each 40 inches wide x approximately 20 inches deep and a further 3 widths of the fabric, each 12 inches deep for the hem ruffle. I used the spare pieces to cut 4 of my TNT pocket patterns.

To begin construction I made up the skirt. I attached the pocket pieces to the main panels then followed with the hem ruffle. This latter was pleated with the pleater foot using a long stitch length of 5mm with a pleat every 6 stitches. I found that the 3 widths of fabric pleated in this way were sufficient to complete the hem of the main panels with just a short section approximately 8 inches long left over. All seams were overlocked as although the fabric was fine enough for French seams, I wanted to complete this ‘toile’ quickly. The skirt was set aside whilst I worked on the bodice.

Following the vlog by Karina I completed the yoke, grown-on facings and collar before basting the side seams and having a ‘first fit’. I noted that I needed to shorten the back bodice length by at least 1 inch, the front bodice will need to be lengthened by at least 1 inch on the next iteration. The side seams were also taken in by ½ inch on both fronts and back. Next time I will also need to reduce the shoulder width by at least 1 inch. I took the time to adjust the pattern pieces now whilst the changes were still at the front of my mind. Once I had made those adjustments to the pattern, I returned to the bodice and marked up the buttonholes. I made 5 vertical buttonholes and attached 5 of my favourite 4-hole tortoiseshell buttons.

Bodice with collar and Faux Tortoiseshell buttons

The bottom of the button placket was basted together as the front skirt panel had been cut on the fold. Next I set in the sleeves. These were very well drafted and were set in easily with no gathers or tucks to spoil the shoulder line. The top edge of the skirt panels were gathered with 2 rows of long stitches and then attached to the bottom of the bodice. As I had already hemmed the ruffle, the dress was now complete.

The finished ‘Take The Chance’ Dress

Conclusion: Working with this very fine Viscose was like ‘herding cats’ as it was so slippery. Overall this was a simple enough dress to make and the drafting is very good with all notches matching up as they should. I am very pleased with the result and with those changes to the pattern mentioned above, I am sure that the next iteration will be even better.

Project #48 completed 19th October 2022

Morgan Messenger Bag #2 – the ‘official’ one!

Bags & Pouches, Fabric - Cotton

Bag Making Retreat in early October.

According to the pattern envelope the Morgan is the perfect gender- neutral, device carrying companion with secure top zip closure & flap in 2 sizes. The small size fits a tablet up to the size of 12.1” (30.7cm) screen inside the padded interior pocket. With zipped pocket, cargo pocket and hidden under-flap pocket, you’ll be sure to have plenty of space.

Construction notes: For this version I found a large remnant of some curtaining fabric and as the main colour was Blue, decided that I would use that combined with another large remnant of Blue quilting weight cotton for the lining. I have a large stash of nickel hardware so was able to use that, together with some newly purchased Bosal ® one-side fusible foam. After almost 2 hours of cutting out and applying various shapes of Bosal to the external pieces, I was ready to start the stitching. This time I did NOT make the error of applying Bosal to the flap before setting the zip for the under flap pocket! Once again I used a size 100 top-stitching needle for the final top stitching around the top of the bag and finished all the zip pulls with tassels!

Conclusion: For some reason, possibly the print of the fabric, this bag feels smaller than the previous iteration. Having now completed the ‘floating bridge’ method for insertion of zip closure on bags, I am more confident with this construction technique.

Morgan Messenger Bag #2 in Curtain-weight furnishing fabric
Internal ‘Floating Bridge’ Inset Zip closure
Internal Pockets

I am much happier with this bag so may even keep it for myself to use in the Summer next year.

Project #45 completed 5th October 2022

Companion Carpet Bag – re-cycling landfill fabric

Bags & Pouches, Fabric - Linen

Having just completed two versions of the Morgan Messenger Bag by Mrs H patterns I wanted to revisit my favourite Mrs H pattern – the Companion Carpet Bag. I had spied some lovely Lime Green Linen in the ‘proposed landfill’ stash and was determined to use it for an unusual bag! I already had an 8½ inch bag frame in my stash and together with co-ordinating fat quarters for the lining, this would be a ‘bag for free’.

I took the fabric, frame and pattern with me when attending the Bag Retreat in Wales but unfortunately did not manage to complete the construction whilst there. Also, I was seduced by the beautiful fabrics displayed by ‘Sew Hot’ in their pop up shop and purchased a metre of a contrasting cotton print (Nantucket Summer by moda ® Sail Check Plaids – Cream and Navy #55265 21) to use for the lining.

Nantucket Summer by moda

According to the pattern description The Companion Carpet Bag features a full width front pocket, which you can trim with piping or lace, bag feet, leather handles and optional leather snap tab. Inside there’s a zipped pocket and a slip pocket. The pattern uses an internal tubular frame, either 8.5″ or 12″.

Construction notes: Due to the thickness of the linen fabric I was able to omit fusible interfacing for the outer fabrics, but it was used on the linings and pockets. Bosal ® one-side fusible foam was used for the stabiliser to give structure to the bag, together with some plastic mesh bag base and some nickel bag feet from my stash of bag-making hardware.

Colourful zip and tassel on the internal pocket

For the internal zip pocket I used a Yellow zip with Cerise pink tassel for added colour.

External pocket trimmed with Nantucket Summer

The external pocket is trimmed with piping using the Nantucket Summer printed cotton.

Flap with magnetic snap underneath

I added a flap with magnetic snap fastener to go over the top of the frame and ensure that the bag is closed up. I also added my long zip keeper but this time it was not elasticated.

Long length key keeper

The linen fabric handles were made extra long so that they can go over my shoulder, they were padded with strips of Bosal for additional comfort.

Long padded handles for use over the shoulder

Conclusion: This pattern is definitely my favourite style of handbag and so far each one that I have made has something a little different. So after making 3 bags ‘on the trot’ it is time to return to dressmaking as I am in need of some new ‘Autumnal’ dresses and blouses…..

Project #46 completed 9th October 2022

Harley dress version #2 + circle skirt

Dresses, Fabric - Cotton

I bought 4 metres of this very bold cotton print ‘Peachy Pink Large Leopard’ back in June 2022 from Rainbow Fabrics. It was laundered and then sat in the pile of fabrics awaiting inspiration.

Peachy Pink Large Leopard Cotton from Rainbow Fabrics, Kilburn

I knew that I wanted to make a dress with full circular skirt but apart from that could not decide on what style of bodice to use. Finally, as I had the idea to make the ‘toile’ version of the Morgan Messenger Bag in the fabric remnants, I needed to get on and cut out something! I finally went with the ‘Harley’ dress. I used my self-drafted ‘Harley’ bodice and an adapted skirt from the Penny dress by Sew Over It.

Construction of this cotton fabric was straightforward. I used French seams on the skirt panels and included concealed side seam pockets – also French seamed. I left the skirt to hang whilst I made up the sleeves and then went onto the bodice. The sleeves have a deep hem facing that was hand stitched in place on the inside. Two rows of gathering at the sleeve head before inserting the sleeves using French seams. The bodice was lined with some plain White cotton with the facings appliqued on using fashion fabric. Seam allowances on both the fashion fabric and lining were pinked to help prevent fraying.

I applied a 3 inch wide facing to the front edges of the skirt panels and ran two rows of gathering along the upper edges of the back skirt panels.

Back view showing gathering in centre back

I attached the skirt to the bodice, overlocked the raw edges and then turned up the bottom edge of the bodice lining and top stitched from the right side.

Close up of Bodice & Sleeves

Buttonholes were worked on my machine and I used 12 coconut shell buttons stitched wrong side up so that the paler shade was on show.

The hem of the skirt was overlocked before turning up a ¼ inch twice and top stitching in place.

Harley dress #2 in Peachy Peach Animal Print Cotton

Conclusion: I am delighted with the dress and will definitely be making this pattern again. When you are a larger lady it is best to go big, go bold!

Project #44 completed 29th September 2022