Category Archives: Dresses

Shelby/Charlotte Dress Hack no 2

Having copied off my Shelby/Charlotte hack onto pattern paper, I used it for my second iteration. Once more with a further hack!

Shelby hacked into ‘Charlotte’

This time I made the button placket full length – through both the bodice and the skirt with no waist seam. I shaped the collar with rounded points and due to the lack of fabric, cut shortened sleeves on the cross grain.

Grace Leaf Viscose Remnant

I used Grace Leaf Viscose 2.5metre piece from Rainbow Fabrics at a cost of £12.50. I had bought it as a remnant with the intention of making a blouse to go under the ‘Jane’ Sage/spotted pinafore dress. However, with careful pattern placement I was able to get the latest Shelby/Charlotte hack from the piece although I did have to cut the shortened length sleeves on the cross grain.

I started the construction with the sleeves, the hems were cut on the selvedge so I simply turned up 1 cm and topstitched in place. I constructed the tie belts on the overlocker and used my ‘wonder turning tool’ to get them right sides out. The ties were basted to the centre back panel.

Then I moved on to the collar. I added some narrow gathered Broderie Anglaise trim in Cream colour that I had found in my stash to the outer edge of the rounded collar. I had to add the centre back panel to the front at the shoulders so that I could complete the collar and placket construction. I then completed the construction of all the panels and neatened with the overlocker. I hemmed using my TNT method of overlocking then double turning a ¼ inch and top stitching in place.

With the fitting completed I stitched 14 buttons through all the layers of the placket as once again I can get the dress on over my head. No need for all those pesky buttonholes! The sleeves were inserted and the seams neatened.

Shelby/Charlotte hack no 2

Conclusion: I am delighted with the completed dress, only small niggle is that the sleeves are a little too wide in relation to their length. Still the dress is most comfortable and will be perfect for the coming Spring and Summer.

Project no 27 completed 20th April 2023

Shelby #2 -Hacked!

The first ‘wearable toile’ of the Shelby needed quite a lot of ‘finessing’ to get it to fit.

Original Shelby dress line drawing

For this version I decided to ‘hack’ it! I copied my TNT basic darted bodice and converted to a shoulder princess style. I placed that over the original Shelby panels and then just to make sure it was nothing like the original, hacked on the collar and front button placket from the Pattern Emporium Easy Fit shirt/Take the Chance dress.

My hacked version Side Front panel

Side Back Panel

I used 3 metres of a ditsy floral printed viscose from Rainbow Fabrics. This fabric has a fantastic drape and will be lovely to wear in late Spring and Summer – provided the alterations work!

I placed the yoke and back bodice over the appropriate Shelby pattern pieces and cut around them.

Back neckline adapted ready for the collar

Front yoke adaptation for collar

I cut the centre front panel ‘around about’ the waist line so that the button placket only goes to that point. The remainder of the centre panel could have been cut on the fold but I did not think of that until later!

Centre Front Panel cut for new waistline seam – space for the seam allowances

My ‘Charlottedress design

With fabric this fine I would normally prefer to use French seams but as this is very much a toile, I made full use of the overlocker.

I started the construction with the sleeves, the hems were overlocked, double turned and top stitched in place with White thread. I constructed the tie belts on the overlocker and used my ‘wonder turning tool’ to get them right sides out.

Turn It All – wonder gadget for narrow ties

The ties were basted to the centre back panel. Then I moved on to the collar. I had to add the centre back panel and side back panels to the front at the shoulders so that I could complete the collar and placket construction. The shoulder seam was neatened with overlocking but only part sewn as I need to check the width of the shoulders before finishing the panel seams.

Having completed the collar and placket I then had my first fitting. All looking good except that the shoulders were going to be about 2 inches too wide. I took in the excess on the panel seams, grading back to the original seamline at the ‘bust’ notch.

I made 5 buttonholes and by way of a change from shell buttons, this time I used some self-covered buttons in White that look just like Mint Imperial sweets!

Now I finished sewing together the side front, side back panels and side seams so that I could insert the sleeves. Once that was done I finished off the hem with overlocking before double turn and top stitching in place. A quick final press and the dress was complete.

My new ‘Charlotte’ dress

Conclusion: I am delighted with the completed dress and will now copy out a ‘perfect’ pattern onto clean white paper. I can’t wait to make another dress in this style and will call it the ‘Charlotte’ as by now it has very little similarity to the Shelby!

Project no 25 completed 15th April 2023

Spring Green ‘Jane’ Pinafore

I was really pleased with the Viscose Linen fabric used on the Black ‘Jane’ I made last month. When I saw the same substrate but in a Light Green with Polka dots on the Rainbow Fabrics site, I immediately ordered the 4m remnant. This ‘Jane’ will be the core of my Spring capsule. I will wear it with different tops and also over some of my Spring/Summer dresses.

As usual I cut out the pattern with the fabric folded right sides together and unfortunately this meant that I did not see the fault lines on the front bodice and side bodice panels. These were then set aside to use as lining and those pieces re-cut so that I could ensure no faults were apparent.

Again I cut the skirt as 2 width of the fabric x 32 inches long. Having stitched the two panels together I decided that was too much fullness for the skirt so removed a total of 30 inches width from the centre back. That has still left a generous amount for gathering the skirt. I will still have just enough of this fabric left over to make a Summer top. I used a remnant of viscose crepe print for the centre back lining panel and also to bind the hem and facing edges.

Contrast Viscose Crepe for Back Bodice Lining

Construction was plain sailing and I made 14 buttonholes down the front of the pinafore dress. I used 15mm shell buttons for the front fastening and later added a button to the top of each of the patch pockets to prevent gaping. NB The excellent pattern matching of the pockets!

Pattern matched Patch Pockets

Conclusion: Blouses, fine polo neck tops and dresses all fit under the pinafore beautifully. Next project is yet another ‘Tabitha’ dress in the Viscose Crepe used for the lining.

My New Spring Green ‘Jane’ Pinafore Dress

Project no 19 completed 30th March 2023.

Shelby Dress version #1

I have had the Shelby dress pattern by True Bias for quite a long time but it was only after seeing the 6 versions made by Andie of So Andie Sews on her vlog that I decided to get on and make my own version. The pattern is very reminiscent of the ‘grunge-style’ dresses that I used to love in the 1990’s. It is described as a princess-seamed dress or romper with four views. Each has a V-shaped neckline, front button opening, and back waist tie. There are two different lengths in each style.

Shelby dress by True Bias line drawing

I knew that the dress at long (but not quite maxi) length would be ‘fabric-hungry’ and therefore ordered 5 metres of viscose from Rainbow Fabrics (I had misread the fabric requirements on the instructions!). The fabric arrived and was duly laundered.

Back to the pattern information – using my measurements I printed off View A in the ‘D’ cup in sizes 20-24. I then graded from a 20 at the shoulders to a 24 at the bust, waist and hips. Having checked the length of my other dresses, I shortened the above waist length of the bodice by 2 inches and ended up with a the total back length 45 inches inclusive of seam and hem allowances. I did not reduce any of the amount of flare at the hemline. I also downloaded the free puff sleeve hack and printed it off.

As the roses print was not a one-way design I was able to nest the pattern pieces and therefore used only 3 metres leaving the remnant 2 metres to be made up into a blouse at a later date.

As this was to be a wearable toile, I first basted the main panel seams and inserted the narrow tie belt into the back panels before having the first fitting. Wow! This dress was so big it was like a little girl wearing her granny’s dress! The shoulders were so wide that they needed to be reduced by at least 1½ inches and the overall fit of the dress could easily be taken in by around 4 inches all around. I duly reduced the width of the shoulders by taking out equal amounts from the panel seams before grading away 1 inch at each princess seam at the bust and waist before grading back to the size 24 hips. Second fitting – so much better! I then stitched and overlocked the seam allowances before adding the front and neck facings. I inserted the puff sleeves and used 15 inches of ¼ inch elastic tied in a knot. That allows for a snug but not too tight fit.

I finished off by overlocking and double turning a narrow hem. I ignored the pattern piece for button placement. I was delighted to find that I could get the dress on and off without undoing the fastenings. I stitched 9 buttons 2¾ inches apart through all layers. I had originally planned to use the Red sparkly buttons but found they competed with the Red of the roses, so back to Black!

Rose print Viscose Shelby dress

Conclusion: Although I was very disappointed at the first fitting stage this was very soon forgotten as I am now delighted with the dress. I have altered the pattern and there will be many more of this style with variations of the sleeves. The only other change will be to stitch the buttons a little closer together as there is some slight gaping between buttons 2, 3 and 4.

Project no 15 completed 13th March 2023

Tabitha dress #6

‘Tabitha’ dress no.6 was inspired by Whitney of Tomkat Stitchery ack in December 2022 I bought 3 metres of this patchwork printed viscose crepe from Rainbow Fabrics for the grand sum of £29.97. This is yet another BOLD print to go with my mini collection of Black, Red and White. This version has short sleeves and a three-tiered gathered skirt. I was able to complete 5 buttonholes (without problems this time!) and used some of the sparkly Red buttons that I bought from Amazon.

Sparkly Red buttons from Amazon

There are concealed pockets in the side seams. The bodice seams are finished as French seams. Due to the bulk of the gathering, the seams for the three tiers of the skirt are overlocked. The skirt hem length is just shy of 30 inches so fits neatly under the Black linen viscose pinafore dress.

Tabitha dress version #6 in Viscose Crepe

Conclusion: I am once again pleased with the dress and in addition to wearing under the pinafore dress, it also looks good with my Red Lisa Comfort cropped ¾ sleeve cardigan. The Tabitha dress is my ‘hack’ of the Take a Chance dress and is an all-time favourite pattern but as this is the sixth version of this pattern, I will be trying something new for my next project.

Project no.12B completed 6th March 2023.

Tabitha dress #5

The Tabitha dress is my ‘hack’ of the Take a Chance dress and is an all-time favourite pattern. This version is part of my mini capsule in the colours of Black, Red and Winter White. I would not normally use polyester but this print fitted so well into the colour range that I thought ‘what the hell, let’s go for it!’

Bold print Polyester Crepe

I used 3 metres that I bought from the Rainbow Fabrics remnant sale for just £10. This version has short sleeves and a gathered skirt with no ruffle. My machine is still a bit huffy about buttonholes so for the closure I used White KAM snaps.

KAM snaps

There are concealed pockets in the side seams and all seams were finished with the overlocker. The skirt hem length is just 30 inches so fits neatly under the pinafore dress.

‘Tabitha’ worn beneath ‘Jane’

Conclusion: I am particularly pleased with the pattern print placement (not always by design). I count this dress as a success but due the boldness of the print it will probably only be worn under the Black viscose linen pinafore dress!

Tabitha #5

Project no.11 completed 23rd February 2023.

‘Jane’ Pinafore Dress in Black Viscose Linen Blend

This was to be the core of a mini capsule based on the colours of Black, Red and Winter White. I have already made two dresses and a blouse and although the ‘Jane’ pinafore dress was cut out first, I had to wait for the delivery of some Black fusible interfacing.

3 metres of Black viscose linen was purchased from Minerva along with 2 metres of Black lining at a total cost of £37.31 including the post and packing. Although in the past I have cut this pattern from less fabric, I wanted to ensure there was sufficient to make the skirt at long enough to exceed the length of the dresses to be worn beneath.

The construction was plain sailing until I got to the 13 buttonholes! First I made up the bodice and the bodice lining. Once the shoulder seams joining the front and back bodice together on both the fashion fabric and the lining, the lining was stitched to the fashion fabric right sides together around the neckline, up and down the front edges and both armholes. All seam allowances were pinked and pressed. Once turned through I stitched the underarm/side seams in one pass, ensuring that seam allowances were pressed to the lining side

Next was the skirt. I had cut two widths of fabric by the length, in this case 34 inches. I made a centre back seam and finished the seam/hem allowances with some left over viscose binding.

Seam and hem allowances finished with contrast binding

There was a goodly amount of fabric to be gathered into the waist seam, however this made it easier to ensure the gathers were even. Once the skirt had been attached to the bodice, I hand stitched the lining in place (the ONLY hand stitching in this garment!). I turned up the hem and mitred the corner with the front facings.

Then came the 13 buttonholes. I am not sure quite why my Brother 4000D machine decided to have a hissy fit but eventually all buttonholes were completed and the buttons attached. I used yet more of the plain black buttons that I bought as part of a bulk buy from Amazon. Finally the patch pockets were stitched in place.

‘Jane’ Pinafore Dress version #6
‘Jane’ and Red floral print Viscose blouse

Conclusion: Don’t you just love it when a plan comes together exactly as you wanted? The blouse and dresses all fit under the pinafore beautifully . Now the last item to be sewn in this mini-capsule is a Sorrento Jacket.

Project no 10 completed 17th February 2023.

Tabitha #4 in monochrome

As a palate cleanser after the disaster that was the Eleanor Shirt from Sew me Something I reverted to one of my TNT patterns. The Tabitha dress is my ‘hack’ of the Take a Chance dress and is fast becoming an all-time favourite pattern. There are so many variations – long, short, straight or gathered sleeves with or without cuff, collar shape, skirt in tiers, with or without a hem ruffle. The only limit is my imagination.

Until late March I intend to work on a mini capsule based on the colours of Black, Red and Winter White. The core garment will be a Black Linen Viscose pinafore dress, the ‘Jane’ which is a favourite TNT pattern.

‘JANE’ self-drafted pinafore dress

I used 3 metres of a pretty monochrome viscose challis bought for just £11.99 from an ebay seller crystal009 from whom I have bought in the past. The fabric is lovely, soft and will be a delight to wear.

Monochrome viscose challis from ebay seller crystal009

I made sure that the length was such that it could be worn under the Black viscose linen pinafore dress.

This version of Tabitha again had long sleeves into a deep cuff and concealed side seam pockets but due to lack of fabric, no hem ruffle on the skirt. Apart from the waist seam, all seams were French seams. My usual concealed side seam pockets were also French seamed.

Multi-pack Black buttons from Amazon

In anticipation of needing lots of plain Black buttons the 9 on this dress were from a multi-pack bought from Amazon for £5.99. At final fitting I noted that there is a lot of ease in the bodice and I therefore added some self-fabric ties at the side seams to bring in at the waistline.

‘Tabitha ‘ under Burgundy ‘Jane’ pinafore dress

A bonus is that the dress is just the correct length also to wear under my Burgundy pinafore dress.

Tabitha version no 4

Conclusion: A success – just what I needed!

Project no.8 completed 7th February 2023.

Tabitha #3

Using this viscose fabric that has a print reminding me very much of the Gustav Klimt paintings, I made yet another version of the Tabitha dress.

Details from some of Klimt paintings

The fabric is fine, with some weight and has a good drape. I purchased 3 metres from an eBay seller ‘vegetextiles’ at a cost of £14.97. This time I reverted back to the short sleeve with 5-buttoned bodice and skirt with deep hem ruffle.

The yoke was completed using the burrito method and all other seams were finished with the overlocker. I used coconut shell buttons on the bodice. Sleeve hems were overlocked and turned up before top stitching in place. The ruffle hem was overlocked, double turned and top stitched.

Tabitha #3 in ‘Klimt’ print Viscose

Conclusion: Although I love the print, once again I found the fabric very lightweight and mobile, a bit like herding cats! My next project is using a much more stable fabric – quilting cotton! I am pleased with the finished dress and am sure there will be many more versions in 2023.

Project #60 completed 28th December 2022

Minerva Viscose Tabitha dress #2

Using my recently hacked Take the Chance/Myosotis dress- now called ‘Tabitha’ I was in a hurry to make up this pretty floral print viscose bought from Minerva’s recent sale – 4 metres at £6.99/metre. I have previously made a ‘wearable toile’ of my adaptations so this should have been a straightforward make.

Unfortunately due to illness I was unable to devote longer stretches of time to complete the project, it was more a question of 30 minutes here and there although overall the construction took no more than 5 hours.

The only change that I made this time was to draft a pattern for long sleeves into a deep double-buttoned cuff. The yoke was completed using the burrito method and all other seams were finished with the overlocker.

There are 5 buttonholes on the bodice and 2 on each cuff which meant that I needed 9 buttons. I could not find a complete set and so once again we have an idiosyncratic mix! Note to self: stock up on plain Black buttons.

Mis-matched buttons

Conclusion: Although I love the print, I did find the fabric very lightweight and mobile, a bit like herding cats! I am pleased with the volume and length of the sleeves so will use that pattern again.

Minerva Viscose Tabitha #2

Project #58 completed 15th December 2022