Category Archives: Fabric – Cotton

Butterick 5539

I have previously made up this pattern at least twice before as it is one of my trusty TNT’s. Originally published in 1998 the style is a classic, still appropriate today as a ‘buffet’ dress some 20+ years later.

I cut a size 22 of View D with the scooped round neckline with added patch pockets. I made a couple of adjustments to the pattern:- narrowed the shoulders and a sway back adjustment. The pattern is an easy sew with no darts and a gathered skirt. There will be further makes using this pattern and next time I will add a full bust adjustment dart.

I used some more Green-themed fabric for my last make in the Spring Greens 2023 collection. This fabric is Petal and Pip Rose Bouquet designed by Paula Milner, a 100% cotton purchased a couple of years ago from Hobbycraft. It is sold in packs, pre-cut to 2 metres and as I knew that I wanted to make a dress purchased 2 packs online.

There were no problems with the construction and I used a plain White cotton to line the short (almost cap) sleeves. The facings are not my favourite, I did understitch but will top stitch them in place to prevent the ‘flipping out’.

That’s the last of this year’s Spring Greens so now I will start on the ‘Summer Blooming’ collection. First up was the bucket hat to keep the sun out of my eyes! Project no 33 completed 31st May 2023.

Project no 33 completed 31st May 2023.

Bucket Hat

Another great little stashbuster project from Katie at Sprat and Winkle Quilters. This takes just 2 x fat quarters and is very quick to make. I used a Blue floral print combined with a fine check fabric from my stash. I used the darker print for the inside of the brim as I felt it would be kinder to my eyes (and avoid a possible migraine from the check) but apart from that the hat is totally reversible. I plan to make another using a vinyl fabric to use as a rainhat – let’s hope I don’t need to use it for a couple of months!

Project no 32 completed 28th May 2023.

McCalls 7837 – Shawl collar Blouse- hacked

Still searching for that TNT Shawl-collared blouse I next tried the McCalls 7837.

This pattern has long been in my stash and I recall that I have made it up before – but a very long time ago and the blouse itself has been lost in the mists of time.

I superimposed the collar, neckline and facing onto my personal Bodice Block and cut out from some 100% cotton print bought (also a very long time ago) from Fabricland, Salisbury branch.

Dusky Sage Green Floral printed Cotton

The Dusky Sage-coloured just about fits into my ‘Spring Greens’ capsule and will go well with the other items in this collection.

Construction was straightforward. All seam allowances were neatened with the overlocker. Because the collar and facing are cut in one piece, this makes for a speedy sew. The hem of the bodice was shaped, hems on the bodice and the sleeves were overlocked and then double turned before top stitching in place. I made 7 buttonholes and used my favourite coconut shell buttons (stitched wrong side up) also stitched on the machine. In fact, there was no hand sewing at all on this blouse!

McCalls 7837 hacked

Conclusion: I give this an 8 out of 10 as it is not yet the TNT Shawl-collared blouse I am searching for. However I will be making it again but next time with a less structured fabric such as a viscose. My only other reservation is that by using the coconut shell buttons, the blouse has a more ‘Autumnal’ feel rather than ‘Spring Greens’.

Project no 28 completed 27th April 2023.

Midnight in the Garden PE Shirt no.2

The first iteration of the Pattern Emporium All in Easy Fit Shirt was such a success that I immediately cut out another using this charming quilting weight cotton print bought from the Sew Hot pop-up shop at a bag-making retreat last October.

The design of the fabric is Midnight in the Garden by Sweetfire Road for moda #43122 and features all sorts of motifs associated with gardens. As I intend to wear this shirt when gardening it was too good an association to miss.

Cutting out took just 1.7M x 108cms wide fabric. I cut the shirt to a size 18 at the neck and yoke, grading out to a 20 from under the arms to the hem. As the fabric is quite structured I would use the overlocker to finish the seams rather than French seams which would be too bulky.

Construction was plain sailing as this fabric stitches and presses well. Rather than the box pleat, my preferred method is to gather the excess fabric across the width of the back yoke. I added a burrito yoke which was then topstitched. The hem on the sleeves was turned under by ¾ inch and top stitched in White thread. In order to avoid extra bulk at the hem on the button placket, I first stitched right sides together across the bottom before turning right sides out and completing the hem with a double turn and top stitching. I made 7 buttonholes, starting parallel to the apex of my bust and then spacing about 3inches apart above and below. I then used 17mm shell buttons from my bulk buy from eBay.

Conclusion: I am pleased with the way that I finished the hem of the button placket and delighted with the completed shirt. I will be using this pattern for my White Viscose Linen. Next time I make the shirt I will add some extra length to the front for a large bust but apart from that no other alterations.

Project no 24 completed 11th April 2023

Neapolitan Aria

I have made the Aria shirt by Love Notions twice before. The first was a trial version for me and the second a trial version for my husband! The latter was not a great success for him but I wear the shirt with my dungarees when gardening!

Having a quick rummage through my fabrics I came across this pretty cotton poplin (ex Rainbow Fabrics) remnant and thought I would have another go with the Aria. I had only 1.10 metres x 150 cms but by judicious pattern layout and the use of a contrast for the inside yoke and undercollar I was able to cut out a size 2X with full bust and short sleeves with cuffs. The only alteration to the pattern was to shorten the length of the body (and button placket) by 1 inch.

It was only as I was preparing to stitch the button placket that I discovered a tiny scissor snip in the left front bodice. I appliqued and satin stitched a patch and hope that it is not too noticeable.

I chose my favourite Mother of Pearl buttons for the closure. I made 7 buttonholes. As I will never wear the shirt fully buttoned up I cut open only the bottom 5.

Neapolitan Aria (version 3)

Conclusion: I am pleased with the end result but there are a couple of changes to be made for the next iteration which I had identified last time and forgot to address. The shoulder width needs to be reduced by ½ inch. I need to lengthen the centre front of the bodice by at least 1 inch and grade to 0 at the side seams. As I did not like the box pleat last time, for this iteration I have gathered in the fullness across the back bodice and I much prefer this look. Due to the colour and pattern of the fabric my husband calls this my Neapolitan Aria.

Project #20 completed 1st April 2023

Eleanor Shirt by Sew Me Something

Having just made a second version of the Tamarack I decided that now was the time to try a new to me pattern.

Eleanor by Sew me Something

I was inspired by all the lovely versions of this shirt posted on Instagram. For the first ‘trial’ version I would use the remnant of Red/White gingham fabric that I had originally used for the binding on my first Tamarack jacket.

Q: How to make a complicated construction method even more difficult?

A: Use a ‘cheap’ loosely woven cotton with gingham weave, just so that it frays like ‘Billy O’ and is not ‘on grain’ so you can’t match up the checks.

As I knew that this shirt was oversized I cut the size 18 from the standard range. I am also aware that I don’t particularly like dropped shoulders but nevertheless I ignored those inner concerns – onwards and upwards!

I have made shawl-collared dresses and blouses in the past but never with the addition of a lined yoke and internal dart for shaping. Try as I might I could not decipher the written instructions so went with my gut and stitched the darts in the shirt and facing before attaching to the neckline and shoulder seams. That has worked out fine. I used the burrito method for completing the yoke and its lining – all without problems.

I inserted the sleeves flat using a French seam and having stitched the side seams also with French seam, turned up a 1½ inch hem. The hem of the shirt was narrow double turned and top stitched in place.

Having now had my final fitting I realised that the shoulder was far too dropped for my liking and the sleeves stick out like an American footballer. I will never wear this shirt. I found 5 Winter White-coloured buttons in my stash, completed the buttonholes, attached the buttons, photographed the completed shirt and ‘laid it to rest’ in the charity bag!

Eleanor in Cotton Gingham

Conclusion: For me this is an absolute fail – lesson learned! However, I do plan to hack the pattern for the collar, facings and yoke onto my standard bodice block. That way I will end up with the collar and yoke detail that I like but without the voluminous shirt, dropped shoulders and massive sleeves.

Project no 7 completed 3rd February 2023

Quilted Blue Stars Tamarack version #2

Hot on the heels of the wearable ‘muslin’ version of the Tamarack jacket I decided to make a second version, again using a pre-quilted fabric.

Tamarack Jacket by Grainline Studios

This time the fabric was originally a quilted bedspread bought from Dunelm during their pre Christmas sale along with a king size duvet cover set that will be used for wearable ‘muslins’ later in the year. I particularly liked the ‘vintage’ denim blue colour and the quilted design of stars. This blue bedspread is crafted from 100% polyester for a durable finish and is machine washable for easy care. 150cm x 200cm (59″ x 79″) for sale at £35.00

Contrast fabric for binding

For the contrast binding I purchased 1 metre of quilting cotton for £6.00 reference 2397 Henna Moire Stripe © by makower from New Threads Quilt Shop sale fabrics.

Changes: As before I added the small dart to the front armscye. I used the curve of the bedspread as the front hem edges of the jacket and cut the remaining hemline straight. I reduced the width of the sleeves from the elbow to wrist. I had thought that I would hack the close-fitting round neck into a V-neckline but in the end decided against it.

I cut some of the contrast fabric into 2 inch wide bias strips but also used some for the label backing and lining the patch pockets.

Hanging loop and label

As I wanted a really neat finish to the insides, all raw edges were neatened using the Hong Kong finish except the sleeve seams which were bound completely as I may wish to turn back the cuffs.

Bound set in sleeve seam, Hong Kong finish shoulder seam and bound neckline

The neckline was also bound in the contrast binding so that and the pocket tops are the only contrast that you can see from the outside. I hesitated for a while regarding the front closure but decided to utilise some of the Pink buttons from my stash.

Refashioned Bedspread into Tamarack jacket

Although it may seem like a lot of work this jacket did not take particularly long to make due mostly to the fact that it was already quilted! I am very pleased with the end result and can’t wait to wear my new jacket!

Project no. 6 completed 30th January 2023

Gift making

Even though we are now past the season of Christmas, I find that I am still busy making gifts for upcoming birthdays. I have a large amount of the 12 oz fire-retardent wadding remaining from the Christmas makes and some very pretty novelty printed cotton fabrics so have continued to make double ended oven mitts and padded, quilted book covers. The fabrics for the projects below were purchased from Home Textile & Fabric thru’ Amazon (my go-to source of so many items!).

Red London Bus printed cotton

The quilting for the Red London Bus mitts was done in straight lines using the buses as guides.

Novelty Cat printed cotton

The wadding for the book cover is 80/20 cotton polyester blend purchased from New Threads Quilt Shop based not far from my home. The quilting for the book cover and the mitts was completed using the wavy line stitch pattern no. 2-18 on my Brother 4000D machine, settings width 7.0 and length 1.8/2.0.

Projects #4 and 5 completed 25th January 2023

Birch waistcoat by Pattern Scout

A waistcoat has been in my plans for a very long time. I bought the recently released Birch pattern which can be used with minimum amounts of fabric. The Birch Vest is described as a lined waistcoat with princess seams, a deep scoop neckline, and a front button closure. A transitional wardrobe staple, Birch can be worn alone or layered with matching separates for a tailored or casual style.

I was lucky enough to find just enough of a Mustard fine needlecord remnant from making Texas trousers together with the remnant of lining used on the sleeves of my Sorrento jacket.

I printed off the pattern and having stitched a very quick toile in calico immediately saw that I needed to shorten the length by 1¼ inches. I also had to ‘finesse’ the curve of the princess seam over the bust. I transferred the alterations to the paper pattern and cut into my remnants of needlecord and lining. There was not quite enough to cut the centre back panel in one piece and so there is a seam at waist level. I may well hide this later with a half belt.

Construction was straightforward and all the pieces matched up well with the notches. I top stitched the princess seams and under-stitched as much as possible before turning right side out.

I found a batch of buttons in just the right size and shade of ‘Mandarin Orange’. Infact there are so many of them that I shall have to find some coordinating printed viscose to make either a blouse or dress to use them up!

Birch waistcoat from stash fabrics

Conclusion: Unfortunately the original Texas trousers in the fine needlecord have been sold so they won’t be worn together with the waistcoat! I am very pleased with the finished project and by using this particular fabric and colour it will coordinate well with many of my dresses and blouses.

Project #02 Completed 10th January 2023

Final make of 2022

I bought this beautiful quilting cotton from the pop up shop by Sew Hot when attending the bag-making retreat back in October 2022. I bought just 2 metres and as soon as I got home the fabric was laundered and sat waiting for me to get ’roundtuit’.

Detail of fabric print

I have made up this pattern in excess of 30 times with many different variations. The variation this time was to expand the sleeve head to make some gathers, shaping the hem of the sleeve and adding a 2 inch wide hem facing to those sleeves. As quilting cottons tend to be more substantial than other cottons I decided to overlock the seam allowances rather than French seam. This has the advantage of making the construction a little quicker.

When it came to choosing buttons, I turned to my favourite Coconut shells in 5/8th diameter. Due to the length of the blouse (it has a shirt tail shaped hemline) I made 6 buttonholes where I would normally make only 5.

TNT Short sleeve blouse with Shirt tail hem

Conclusion: This particular print coordinates really well with my jogging bottoms, linen trousers and Dark Green ‘Jane’ pinafore dress so I foresee that it will get a great deal of wear. Whilst I am pleased with the completed blouse, in hindsight I think that due to its structure, the quilting cotton is a little too stiff so in future I will only use Viscose for this particular TNT pattern and the Aria by Love Notions for the more structured blouses.

Project #60 Completed 31st December 2022