Still searching for that TNT Shawl-collared blouse I next tried the McCalls 7837.

This pattern has long been in my stash and I recall that I have made it up before – but a very long time ago and the blouse itself has been lost in the mists of time.

I superimposed the collar, neckline and facing onto my personal Bodice Block and cut out from some 100% cotton print bought (also a very long time ago) from Fabricland, Salisbury branch.

Dusky Sage Green Floral printed Cotton

The Dusky Sage-coloured just about fits into my ‘Spring Greens’ capsule and will go well with the other items in this collection.

Construction was straightforward. All seam allowances were neatened with the overlocker. Because the collar and facing are cut in one piece, this makes for a speedy sew. The hem of the bodice was shaped, hems on the bodice and the sleeves were overlocked and then double turned before top stitching in place. I made 7 buttonholes and used my favourite coconut shell buttons (stitched wrong side up) also stitched on the machine. In fact, there was no hand sewing at all on this blouse!

McCalls 7837 hacked

Conclusion: I give this an 8 out of 10 as it is not yet the TNT Shawl-collared blouse I am searching for. However I will be making it again but next time with a less structured fabric such as a viscose. My only other reservation is that by using the coconut shell buttons, the blouse has a more ‘Autumnal’ feel rather than ‘Spring Greens’.

Project no 28 completed 27^th April 2023.

The first iteration of the Pattern Emporium All in Easy Fit Shirt was such a success that I immediately cut out another using this charming quilting weight cotton print bought from the Sew Hot pop-up shop at a bag-making retreat last October.

The design of the fabric is Midnight in the Garden by Sweetfire Road for moda #43122 and features all sorts of motifs associated with gardens. As I intend to wear this shirt when gardening it was too good an association to miss.

Cutting out took just 1.7M x 108cms wide fabric. I cut the shirt to a size 18 at the neck and yoke, grading out to a 20 from under the arms to the hem. As the fabric is quite structured I would use the overlocker to finish the seams rather than French seams which would be too bulky.

Construction was plain sailing as this fabric stitches and presses well. Rather than the box pleat, my preferred method is to gather the excess fabric across the width of the back yoke. I added a burrito yoke which was then topstitched. The hem on the sleeves was turned under by ¾ inch and top stitched in White thread. In order to avoid extra bulk at the hem on the button placket, I first stitched right sides together across the bottom before turning right sides out and completing the hem with a double turn and top stitching. I made 7 buttonholes, starting parallel to the apex of my bust and then spacing about 3inches apart above and below. I then used 17mm shell buttons from my bulk buy from eBay.

Conclusion: I am pleased with the way that I finished the hem of the button placket and delighted with the completed shirt. I will be using this pattern for my White Viscose Linen. Next time I make the shirt I will add some extra length to the front for a large bust but apart from that no other alterations.

Project no 24 completed 11th April 2023

I have made the Aria shirt by Love Notions twice before. The first was a trial version for me and the second a trial version for my husband! The latter was not a great success for him but I wear the shirt with my dungarees when gardening!

Having a quick rummage through my fabrics I came across this pretty cotton poplin (ex Rainbow Fabrics) remnant and thought I would have another go with the Aria. I had only 1.10 metres x 150 cms but by judicious pattern layout and the use of a contrast for the inside yoke and undercollar I was able to cut out a size 2X with full bust and short sleeves with cuffs. The only alteration to the pattern was to shorten the length of the body (and button placket) by 1 inch.

It was only as I was preparing to stitch the button placket that I discovered a tiny scissor snip in the left front bodice. I appliqued and satin stitched a patch and hope that it is not too noticeable.

I chose my favourite Mother of Pearl buttons for the closure. I made 7 buttonholes. As I will never wear the shirt fully buttoned up I cut open only the bottom 5.

Neapolitan Aria (version 3)

Conclusion: I am pleased with the end result but there are a couple of changes to be made for the next iteration which I had identified last time and forgot to address. The shoulder width needs to be reduced by ½ inch. I need to lengthen the centre front of the bodice by at least 1 inch and grade to 0 at the side seams. As I did not like the box pleat last time, for this iteration I have gathered in the fullness across the back bodice and I much prefer this look. Due to the colour and pattern of the fabric my husband calls this my Neapolitan Aria.

Project #20 completed 1^st April 2023

Having just made a second version of the Tamarack I decided that now was the time to try a new to me pattern.

I was inspired by all the lovely versions of this shirt posted on Instagram. For the first ‘trial’ version I would use the remnant of Red/White gingham fabric that I had originally used for the binding on my first Tamarack jacket.

Q: How to make a complicated construction method even more difficult?

A: Use a ‘cheap’ loosely woven cotton with gingham weave, just so that it frays like ‘Billy O’ and is not ‘on grain’ so you can’t match up the checks.

As I knew that this shirt was oversized I cut the size 18 from the standard range. I am also aware that I don’t particularly like dropped shoulders but nevertheless I ignored those inner concerns – onwards and upwards!

I have made shawl-collared dresses and blouses in the past but never with the addition of a lined yoke and internal dart for shaping. Try as I might I could not decipher the written instructions so went with my gut and stitched the darts in the shirt and facing before attaching to the neckline and shoulder seams. That has worked out fine. I used the burrito method for completing the yoke and its lining – all without problems.

I inserted the sleeves flat using a French seam and having stitched the side seams also with French seam, turned up a 1½ inch hem. The hem of the shirt was narrow double turned and top stitched in place.

Having now had my final fitting I realised that the shoulder was far too dropped for my liking and the sleeves stick out like an American footballer. I will never wear this shirt. I found 5 Winter White-coloured buttons in my stash, completed the buttonholes, attached the buttons, photographed the completed shirt and ‘laid it to rest’ in the charity bag!

Conclusion: For me this is an absolute fail – lesson learned! However, I do plan to hack the pattern for the collar, facings and yoke onto my standard bodice block. That way I will end up with the collar and yoke detail that I like but without the voluminous shirt, dropped shoulders and massive sleeves.

Project no 7 completed 3^rd February 2023

A waistcoat has been in my plans for a very long time. I bought the recently released Birch pattern which can be used with minimum amounts of fabric. The Birch Vest is described as a lined waistcoat with princess seams, a deep scoop neckline, and a front button closure. A transitional wardrobe staple, Birch can be worn alone or layered with matching separates for a tailored or casual style.

I was lucky enough to find just enough of a Mustard fine needlecord remnant from making Texas trousers together with the remnant of lining used on the sleeves of my Sorrento jacket.

I printed off the pattern and having stitched a very quick toile in calico immediately saw that I needed to shorten the length by 1¼ inches. I also had to ‘finesse’ the curve of the princess seam over the bust. I transferred the alterations to the paper pattern and cut into my remnants of needlecord and lining. There was not quite enough to cut the centre back panel in one piece and so there is a seam at waist level. I may well hide this later with a half belt.

Construction was straightforward and all the pieces matched up well with the notches. I top stitched the princess seams and under-stitched as much as possible before turning right side out.

I found a batch of buttons in just the right size and shade of ‘Mandarin Orange’. Infact there are so many of them that I shall have to find some coordinating printed viscose to make either a blouse or dress to use them up!

Conclusion: Unfortunately the original Texas trousers in the fine needlecord have been sold so they won’t be worn together with the waistcoat! I am very pleased with the finished project and by using this particular fabric and colour it will coordinate well with many of my dresses and blouses.

Project #02 Completed 10^th January 2023

I bought this beautiful quilting cotton from the pop up shop by Sew Hot when attending the bag-making retreat back in October 2022. I bought just 2 metres and as soon as I got home the fabric was laundered and sat waiting for me to get ’roundtuit’.

I have made up this pattern in excess of 30 times with many different variations. The variation this time was to expand the sleeve head to make some gathers, shaping the hem of the sleeve and adding a 2 inch wide hem facing to those sleeves. As quilting cottons tend to be more substantial than other cottons I decided to overlock the seam allowances rather than French seam. This has the advantage of making the construction a little quicker.

When it came to choosing buttons, I turned to my favourite Coconut shells in 5/8^th diameter. Due to the length of the blouse (it has a shirt tail shaped hemline) I made 6 buttonholes where I would normally make only 5.

Conclusion: This particular print coordinates really well with my jogging bottoms, linen trousers and Dark Green ‘Jane’ pinafore dress so I foresee that it will get a great deal of wear. Whilst I am pleased with the completed blouse, in hindsight I think that due to its structure, the quilting cotton is a little too stiff so in future I will only use Viscose for this particular TNT pattern and the Aria by Love Notions for the more structured blouses.

Project #60 Completed 31^st December 2022