Category Archives: Fabric – Jersey

Tamarack Jacket by Grainline

I have had the original pattern in sizes 0-18 for this quilted jacket a very long time! It has always been my plan to make a version to replace an original quilted jacket bought from Orvis which now sadly is too small.

Tamarack Line Drawing

According to the website the Tamarack jacket was designed with the transitional seasons in mind, it is a warm and stylish quilted coat perfect for spring and fall layering. Follow one of the two quilting designs included, or design your own to make your Tamarack totally original to you! You’ll stay toasty thanks to the inner layer of cotton or wool batting, while the roomy welt pockets will keep your belongings safe and your hands warm.

As it is a long time since the size 18 would fit, my first task was to grade out to a 22, even up the hem so that the back length is the same as the front. I reduced the bodice length by 2 inches and the length of the sleeves by 1¼ inches. Next I had located some pre-quilted and lined jersey fabric bought by weight from Abakhan Fabrics at least 13 years ago. This is really making from my stash with a vengeance!

Quilted & lined Fine Jersey Fabric

I basted the cut out pieces together and discovered that as per usual the shoulders were too wide so reduced them by ½ inch grading back to the armscye notches. In order to remove the gaping at the armhole I needed a small dart from the armscye to my bust apex. These were quickly completed and I moved on to the welt pockets. It is a long time since I constructed welt pockets so the instructions from Grainline were invaluable, as was the youtube video sewalong.

I had to wait for the delivery of the gingham fabric that I had chosen for all the bias binding so now was a good time to take a break. The gingham fabric which was sold as linen-look cotton was a little disappointing. A very loose weave so I do not think the fabric was top quality but it would serve on this first wearable toile.

The instructions for making the welt pockets were comprehensive and apart from the fact that sometimes I was stitching through 3 layers of quilted fabric (i.e. two outers plus wadding fill for each layer) the construction was straightforward.

First welt pocket completed

I decided to neaten the raw edges of the pocket bags and along the top of the internal welt seam with the contrast binding.

Neatened raw edges of the pocket bag

The next step was to overlock all the edges that would not be covered by the bias binding. Once that was done I completed the remainder of the construction.

Personalised Label

I applied a small ‘facing’ with my personal maker’s label to the centre back along with a hanging loop. The bias binding was stitched right sides together before hand slip stitching to the reverse and finished with top stitching from the right side. I made 5 buttonholes and used some neutral-coloured buttons from my stash.

Completed Trial Version of the TAMARACK

Conclusion: I love this jacket and will definitely be making another. There are a few changes for the next iteration. I will lengthen the sleeves back to just ½ inch shorter than the pattern. Next time I will curve the front edges, may well change to a rounded V-neckline and apply poppers rather than buttons and buttonholes. If I decide to repeat the welt pockets then I will apply a lining to the front bodice pieces to conceal all the ‘workings’ and pocket bags.

Project no.3 completed 21st January 2023

1st make of 2023

When browsing through my stash of knit fabrics I came across this beautiful Ponte Roma in a lovely shade of ‘Sea Haze’ or if you like – Pale Greeny/Blue! There was just under 1 metre of fabric but where it came from – I know not where!

I have not made a Paola top for some time as previously I was ‘hooked’ on the cowl necked Freya top by Tilly and the Buttons. However, as I wanted to use up this fabric, the Paola pattern by Named Clothing fitted the bill perfectly.

I threaded up the overlocker with palest Green thread, inserted 2 new jersey needles, tested the stitching and was off!

When cutting out I discovered that there was insufficient for full length sleeves so I cut them as long as possible and then added a double folded cuff. The finished length is somewhere between the elbow and the wrist, which is perfect for me as I have short arms and did not want my wrists to be ‘cluttered’.

I remembered that Ponte de Roma does not have the same amount of stretch as cotton or viscose jersey so made the seams as narrow as possible. I stitched the top entirely on the overlocker with the exception of twin needle stitching the hem of the bodice.

Paola Turtle Neck Tee in Ponte Roma

Conclusion: The only adjustment that I made was to drop the centre front neckline by ¾ inch as I found the original a bit too close. Next time I will make the collar shorter but also a little wider, apart from that this top is just about perfect.

  • Project #01 Completed 5th January 2023

Review & Plans

According to the ‘likes’ on my instagram pages the following were my ‘Magnificent Seven’:-

1 Freya Blue Cowl neck top – viscose jersey – Rainbow Fabics

2 New Look 6731 Palm Leaf Blouse – viscose challis – Rainbow Fabrics

3 By Hand London Hannah wrap dress – check poly/cotton duvet – Dunelm

4 Hack New Look 6731 short sleeve blouse – cotton remnant – C&H fabrics

5 ‘Moira’ Moonflower dress – viscose challis – Rainbow Fabrics

6. Love Notions Melody Blouse – viscose challis – Rainbow Fabrics

7 ‘Jane’ Pinafore dress – Autumnal print curtaining cotton remnant – eBay

An interesting result that demonstrates my ‘conversion’ to Viscose substrate purchased mostly from Rainbow Fabrics and also the use of recycled and/or refashioned woven fabrics.

For 2022 I am determined to whittle down my stash of both fabrics and patterns. To that end I have unsubscribed from all those companies that regularly send inviting mails with enticing photographs of new and exciting fabrics and dressmaking patterns.

For the month of January I intend to ‘Go Green’, by that I mean that I would like to concentrate on projects using fabrics with a Green theme. I have several lengths selected and I hope to use them on ‘new to me’ patterns plus some old favourites.

The first project is a long sleeved blouse (‘Carmen’) using a TNT pattern, last made as the first project of 2021. What a coincidence that the pattern will again be the first make of 2022!

1st January 2022