Modesty Camisole Top – making the Toile

The 3 Dartmouth wrap front tops are very much flavour of the month at present but just one slight problem. When moving about the wrap tends to slip down to display a large amount of décolletage. I have ordered a lace trimmed camisole top in Cream from eBay, but whilst waiting for it to arrive thought I would ‘have a go’ at designing and making a camisole-style top that I could wear with interchangeable panels to match or co-ordinate with whichever top (or later wrap dress) that I am wearing.

Starting point was the Sorbetto top which is a free download pdf from Colette Patterns. I checked my measurements and traced off view 1 size 18. Then I started to hack! I deleted the front pleat, reduced the length by 2¾ inches, reduced the width of the shoulders to 3 inches and then re-shaped the neckline. I made a very deep scoop at the front which is where the interchangeable ‘modesty’ panel will be fitted and then drafted a separate pattern piece for the panel.

I was anxious to try out my pattern. To make the toile I cut the front and back bodice pieces from Winter White lining fabric and the modesty panel from some White embroidered cotton remnant.

I stitched up almost entirely on the overlocker taking ¼ inch seams, finishing the raw edges of the armholes, neckline and hems also with the overlocker. I then tried my first fitting. There were several adjustments to be made:-

Raised the shoulders by ½ inch which then placed the bust darts correctly pointing to my apex.

Took in at the side seams, ¾ inch at the underarm grading out from the waistline to the hem by ½ inch. This effectively makes the top a size 16 at the shoulders and bust grading to an 18 at the hips. Reduced the height of the inset panel by 2 inches.

My idea for an interchangeable panel does not quite work but by keeping the top very simple I think that I will be able to make several versions with co-ordinating panels to wear with my Dartmouth wrap tops.

Next step is to make the first ‘proper’ camisole in some White polyester crepe de chine with a White lace-trimmed modesty panel. Photos to follow.