I saw this particular pattern made up by Bobo-Bun on Instagram and was inspired to buy a copy for myself. I planned to make the blouse up in some recently purchased Lady McElroy Marie Lawn and as that fabric was expensive, decided to make a wearable muslin first.
After a quick check in my stash I came across some pretty Cotton Poplin in Light Brown with small Pink polka dots. I had originally purchased this fabric from Franklins in Salisbury to use as part lining for a jacket but as that project never proceeded, I washed the length of fabric and cut out the pattern to a size 22. NB. I merely glanced at the layout diagram hence the sleeves fronts and backs were cut on the straight grain – not the bias. I shall have to wait and see how that affects the fit !?
Most of the seams were French seams but when it came to setting in the raglan sleeves this was not possible as I knew they would need some adjustment. They have been neatened with zig-zag stitching (my overlocker is still away being serviced!).
First fitting: I discovered that the shoulders and chest were a little too large but around the waist/tummy/hips it was too small. This was partly due to the tucks and the depth of the side seams. The the v-neckline is also rather low. The shaping of the centre seam of the sleeves definitely needed taking in.
Changes: I re-shaped the bottom 10 inches of the centre sleeve seams and removed the tucks from the bodice front and back. This lessened the American Footballer-style shoulder line and gave sufficient ease to fit over the waist/tummy/hips.
I did not cut a back neck facing, instead using my TNT method and top stitched the back collar to the stay stitching. As a nod to making a special finish I neatened the raw edges of the front facings with Pale Pink satin bias binding. The collar was top stitched with two threads through the needle, stitch length 3.5mm. Hems on the sleeves and body of the blouse were first stitched at a 1/4 inch before a double turn and machine top-stitched in matching thread.
The five buttonholes were stitched with Pink thread and the five Pink buttons came from my stash. There is a spare sixth button stitched inside the front facing.
Pattern alterations for next time: Sway back adjustment, lengthen the bodice front and back by ½ inch at the side seams. Lengthen front bodice at centre front by 1½ inches grade to 0 at the side seam.
Conclusion: I like the style of the blouse, especially the shaping of the collar. I am reminded why I do not like raglan sleeves as I always have to adapt them. I am not particularly enamoured with the finished garment as the fabric is definitely too crisp for the style. The blouse will probably end up in the charity bag. However I think that I will have another trial run and this time use a woven viscose which should have the required softness and drape to showcase the vintage-style pattern.
Project #06 completed 24th January 2022