Back in May I declared that I would concentrate on refining a new pattern for trousers, culottes and also a jumpsuit. Well that did not happen! I was seduced by the Texas pattern by Style Arc and made it up no less than 4 times.

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Unfortunately not a single pair is spot- on in terms of fit. One pair were made using NEW fabric – a stretch denim from Minerva.

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The reason that pair were not perfect is due mostly to my choice of fabric. The denim was too stiff but I hope it will soften up with wear and wash. In the meantime, some alterations were necessary.

First I cut away the pockets. Two reasons: a) the pocket bags were too long b) three layers of this stiff fabric was interfering with the drape of the trousers. I left the top-stitching in place so now I have ‘faux side pockets’.

Next, I decided to completely re-stitch the outside leg seams. This meant that I had to do a great deal of unpicking! I unpicked part of the waistband at each side, part of the hems on each leg plus the entire side seams that had been stitched with 4-thread overlocking PLUS twin needle top-stitching!

Next, I pinned down the side seams where I thought would be more appropriate before machine-tacking ready for a fitting. From the fitting I concluded that to take in by no less than 1 inch from each leg piece i.e. a total of 2 inches from each side seam was the way forward. I completed the alteration by machine stitching and overlocking the side seams, re-stitching the waistband and hems plus twin needle top stitching around the hems. I was unable to repeat the twin needle top stitching at the side seams as I could not manipulate through the inside of the legs. I good thorough press completed the project.

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The Texas pants are not perfect but in this substrate are now a much better fit. I plan to re-draw the pattern taking into account all the various alterations and ….. hopefully will end up with a ‘perfect’ trouser pattern.

Project #53 completed 22nd August 2021