Variations on a Theme – Simplicity 2886

I have had this pattern in my stash for ages and in the hope that we will eventually get some Summer sunshine I decided that now was the time to make a Sundress. Having prepared the fabrics – both 100% cotton prints from Fabricland in Salisbury, I bottled out of making view C as I felt I would be just too exposed! I decided instead to make view A but with some variations inspired by View C. I particularly liked the contrast spot print around the bodice, midriff band and hem so wanted to include these features in my dress. I altered the bodice pattern for my unique (!) body measurements and drafted for contrast sections on the bodice. View A includes a side seam zip fastener which I dislike and I therefore allowed for insertion of the zip into the centre back seam – my preferred location. I finished the zip with a hand-picked seam but when trying on discovered that the dress goes on “pullover” style so the zip is not needed. The pattern also calls for the bodice to be lined. As this was to be a Summer dress and I wanted it to be as light as possible I drafted facings for the neckline instead and decided to bind the armholes with self bias binding. I had sufficient contrast fabric to cut the sash so included this in my cutting layout to be set aside and checked when I came to the fitting stage as to whether or not it was required. All went swimmingly well until I started to sew the tucks in the midriff band. On the illustrations you can see 5 pleats and they look to be quite deep. The pattern identifies the tucks, on close inspection they turned out to be pin tucks not pleats at all. I changed to just 4 deep pleats and the finished midriff band ended up the correct depth to line up with the back bodice. At fitting stage I noted some “gaposis” in the armholes and this has necessitated a tuck of approximately 1/2″.  The line of the armscye has changed but as it is bias bound is of no consequence. I have altered the bodice pattern and corrected the armhole line – just in case I decide to make this design again. I particularly like the sweetheart neckline and deep pockets which are stitched into the side seam and midriff band seam which means they don’t flap about inside the skirt. This time I made the skirt with the box pleats as per the pattern. I think another time I would make a gathered skirt and also replace the tucks in the bodice for gathers.

simplicity 2886simplicity 2886 line drawings

01 front view full length02 back view full length

3 hand picked zip04 side pocket